Road Bike Suggestions

[gopherhockey]

Ok... I'm just thinking about it at this point in time - but if I'm going to start research and/or put much thought into it I'd like to start off with some advice.

If a person were to get into road biking - what bike would one buy?

Lets do this two ways.

First, say cost is not a big deal.

Second, take cost into consideration, as well as the fact that this would be entirely new and that I would probably use it less than my off road bike.

With my mtb, I had to keep buying a new one almost every year as I either wore out or outgrew a cheaper model. Might have been cheaper for me to have started with a better bike to begin with, but not necessarily the top of the line racer-guy model.

Then again... ;)

So... what would you get if you were me. What do you ride? What would you buy if you were in the market for yourself?

[Rocky Mountain]

The frame would have to be steel in IMHO. Aluminum is usually very stiff and not too forgiving when hitting bumps. Plus Al was designed for marketing purposes to sell more bikes. Studies showed larger tubes appealed to more purchasers. No immature responses for the last comment, please.

Conalgo makes the sweetest road bikes. They are a little flashy but hey there made in Italy. Check out WCP in St. Paul for the largest selection in the US. These guys also tape all the TDF and other road races around the world. World Cycling Productions (http://www.worldcycling.com/)

For economical road bikes I would check out,Lickton Bikes (http://www.lickbike.com) , GVH Bikes (http://www.gvhbikes.com/) or Colorado Cyclist who makes a ti-carbon for a very decent price.

Ultegra which is comparable to XT would be the best component group unless you want to spend $200-300 extra on a Campy group that is comparable. The shifters on Campy are designed different than Shimano and are supposed to be easier to use.

The most important thing about road bikes is how well the bike fits your body. When you get serious get fitted at Flanders Bros down on Lyndale which cost about $25 and is well worth it for peace of mind. Also, the TT length is just as important as standover height.

[yetirider]

Have to agree with Jason on the Steel deal... but that is just my opinion combined with my checkbooks lack of ability to shell out for Ti or Ti/Carbon frames. Best ride for the $$

I went the "economical" route if you could call it that and bought a bike off the rack. Still not inexpensive by any means, but for what I use it for, training, it was plenty.

I went with a Lemond Zurich with an Ultegra Build. I did switch out a few things to help it along. I also ended up going with Speedplay Zero's for pedals, very similar to Shimano wrt getting out of them...

With road bikes, test ride a ton! You are generally in the same position for hours and if the fit isn't there, it is going to be tough!

[SilverAthlon]

Sure sure steel is real. Aluminum is better.... But for serious, you have to figure out what style of riding (or your purpose) you like.

If you're just cruising about (commuter style), or you plan on touring or something, steel is probably going to feel better, it's a softer material, therefore it's going to absorb some of the bumps that your 110 p.s.i. tires will send up to you. Steel is unfortunately a heavier material, therefore your bike will be heavier.

If you're looking for performance i recommend either a aluminum or c.f. frame. Your aluminum frame offers quite a bit of stiffness, creating better energy transfer to the cranks, and less flex at the rear seatstay/chainstay. Also it will be substantially lighter, many frames are sub 3 lbs., which is equivalent to many Ti frames. (Ti is for the people with ungodly amounts of money.) The downside is you're gonna take some extra beating on this type of frame. A Carbon Fiber frame is essentially the best of both worlds. Carbon is a very rigid formation, but also very forgiving. It will feel (more or less) like steel, but perform equal to aluminum. If you've got the cash, flaunt it, IMHO you'll love the bike, and catch some awe's as you ride....

As for componentry, seeing as you're a avid, aggressive rider, i would recommend nothing short of Shimano's 105 line. Widely considered as entry level racing components, they are built to take the repeated abuse of changing gears, increased usage, etc. You will also see a difference in functionality of the the sti shifters vs. their 2 lower lines, tiagra, and sora. Your next model up is Ultegra, and then Dura Ace.


Typically on a steel touring model you will see a triple chainring. Also known as "bailout" ring, offers you a smaller (30-ish) ring to downshift to. On a bike geared more towards competition/performance you'll see a double chainring, (smallest ring is 42-ish)

A "race ready" 105, aluminum road bike should run you around $1200. If you're interested in c.f., think along the lines of Ultegra/Dura Ace, and at least $3000. A steel frame should lower the price around $200.

Giant (http://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/030.000.000/030.000.000.asp?bikesection=8830&lYear=2003) has an excellent road line, i encourage you to check it out. If you're interested in riding some find a local dealer and they'll help you out. Me? I went the budget route, and got a Aluminum w/ 105 group. Very Extremely happy, and it looks trick. If you are looking at shimano components, spend the extra $170 for flight deck. Keeps your eyes more on the road and gives much info.

For a more winded version :p pm me and i'll be happy to help.

[martini]

I agree on the steel thing as well. The most important thing on a road bike is FIT. If it ain't right, you'll hate the bike, and very quickly as well. Components? I wouldn't go much higher nor lower than Shimano Ultegra/105 or Campy Centaur/Veloce. Personally, I MUCH preferr the Campy way of shifting. I like to FEEL when the gear changes, the solid thunk of the chain dropping in. Its reassuring to me. I also much preferr the shifter style, and the hoods sit in my hands much more comfortably. Brands to look at? HAHA! You name it, at this level, they're all pretty good. Test ride as many as you can find, eh?

[BrightYellow]

I'd say it all depends on the type of riding you are planning on doing... The two extremes being racing and long distance touring. If you plan on mainly doing either one, then you'd be wise to spend the money on some decent equipment. If you are going to race and can afford the best, then get a Seven (http://www.sevencycles.com/road/odonata.html).
or a Colnogo C40 (http://www.worldcycling.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WCP&Product_Code=COC4-03). And you'll wanna go Dura-Ace or Campy Record all the way.

But, if you are like me - do the ocasional century, some touring and put about 40-80 miles a week on it, then you can get by with something mid range. In this case, I'd go for steel, or Ti if you can afford it. I'd go with the steel bike just for the comfort level. I've heard good things about the Lemond Zurich mentioned below. I know you are partial to Klein [Opps... for some reason, I thought James started this thread..], but the aluminum frame is going to be harsh - not fun for a longer ride. Maybe if you get a aluminum frame with a carbon rear stay, it'll be more comforable (http://www.fondriest-usa.com/frameset.php?frame=madonna).

As for components, you can get by with 105s or upgrade to Ultegra. For Campy you can go Centaur or Chorus. You won't be disapointed with either Ultegra or Chorus.

I have a vintage steel frame (read circa 80's) with Campy Record parts and it has worked great. I ride it weekly, have toured CO, MT and MN with it... good stuff.

You probably know Flanders better than I do, but I wouldn't go near that place again. Scammers who don't know what they are doing or selling. I'd go to Erik's in Richfield - I know Erik's doesn't sound very top end, but the Richfield store is different. Trust me, check it out.

[GearDaddy]

Oh boy - so you had to ask. Well, here's another 2 cent opinion....

Martini's right - fit is extremely important. The problem here is that you are not an experienced road rider, so you might not recognize a good fit right away. It's easy to pick a frame that's the right size, and you can also fudge the fit by changing stems, handlebars, and seat positions. But different bikes have different angles, which give different riding characteristics, and the only thing you can do is compare and contrast as much as possible. The fork (steel or carbon usually) and the wheels on the bike can also greatly affect it's riding characteristics.

There really is no magic frame material IMO. I ride a steel Colnago and I just love it. But I had a steel Trek for many years, and that thing was reall harsh compared to the Colnago. Typically, most LBSs peddle "race-oriented" bikes, which translates to a plethora of aluminum frame/carbon fork offerings. They are all very lightweight, and most have a very stiff ride, which the carbon fork tends to dampen. But, the most expensive ones have much better ride characteristics. The cheap ones are stiff as board and/or have forks that are too flexy. If you really want to go lightweight, then you can go for a carbon frame. Trek has their OCLV frame lineup and Giant has recently come out with an extremely lightweight OCR Carbon (can be found at Bikemasters LBS). Or you could go for the Colnago C-40 for $5,000+. Then there is the sort of "boutique" steel and titanium class of bikes, which is a little bit more focused on a more comfortable ride vs. really lightweight. There are a lot of very expensive, custom made frames in this category, which is definitely worth it if you know exactly what you want.

As far as components, don't skimp. I'm a Campy fan too, as I definitely prefer Ergo style over STI. Personally, I think Campy Centaur is better than Shimano Ultegra. In general I think you'll notice the difference between different components in the shifter performance and in the crankset. But, there is personal preference here, and there are tradeoffs between durability and cost. It is well known that Campy replacement costs are much higher, but many would argue that they are better with durability and compatibility between component lines. If you're going to race though, you'll likely trash your bike to a certain extent, so Shimano might be a better choice in the long run.

Money is no object? The world is your oyster my friend. Unfortunately, there are many many bikes that you will not be able to find locally, and its difficult to know whether it's right for you without actually getting on the thing. If you want to see a real good cross-section of all the different bikes available, then go to http://www.roadbikereview.com and look at their "classifieds" page. They have reviews there too, but they're not that informative.

Here in town you can visit all the different LBSs and get a mild variety of choices. A place like Flanders will have some real high-end stuff (like Serotta - oooh, those are nice).

Lots of decisions to make, but at least it's fun to shop!

[SilverAthlon]

Campy's not as widely available as far as parts. Way more specialized, for not a ton of benefit. It's all about personal preference.

[TrailPatrol]

Okay, seeing how I don't find Shad in this discussion, and I don't know how he he could turn it into another discourse on the correctness of his Kamikazie lifestyle...

John,
Check out the new Specialized Sequoia. It got a really good write-up in Adventure Cyclist this month, isn't too expensive ($880.00) and is built for long road rides. Geez John, hook you up with some racks and panniers, and you and Liz may take up touring! Cross the US by bike! Think of it. The possibilities are endless. :eyeroll:

Ride safe,
:banana:
Hans

[gopherhockey]

Thanks for all the advice. I knew I'd find some guys that know their road stuff here. The process will be slow.. but who knows, maybe by next year I'll be joining ya'll on the road.

[martini]

Originally posted by SilverAthlon
Campy's not as widely available as far as parts. Way more specialized, for not a ton of benefit. It's all about personal preference.

:crazy2: hahahaha! That's rich! If you want to get down the meat of it all, Campy parts can be REPAIRED. Shimano CAN'T. If you bust a shifter, or simply wear one out, Camagnolo makes sure that EVERY part in their shifters can be repaired/replaced. If this happens to your shimano shifter, you just bought a new one. Not very economical if you ask me. If your LBS can't do the work, which does require some training, the LBS can send it to QBP(they have literally every part for nearly every ergo shifter in stock), have it done there by thier experts, and have it back with in a matter of days(at a good price, may I add). With Shimano, you have wait for an RA, then ship it back to get a replacement.

And the pendulum swings back to Campagnolo!

[SilverAthlon]

QBP offers every single part for every Shimano STI lever, which means you DON'T have to replace the whole shifter, you can replace/repair parts same as campy. I know for a fact because i've got a part of my 105 shift lever on order as we speak.

Look at that folks! Shimano attacks with a counter-punch. This company is ON FIRE!!

[martini]

Ok, we can get specific if you want ;) .

Say you've been shifting away soo much that you shifts are starting to feel fuzzy(oh, wait! Shimano feels fuzzy ALL the time!). You can A: replace the gear indexer in your Campy shifter(at a cost of about $25 all told, any level, Record to Avanti), or B: replace the whole dang unit for shimano(all different $$$ DA to $ Tiagra).

One to the gut for Shimano!

[SilverAthlon]

You can replace the gear indexer in shimano as well, again, all the parts are available for their shifters.

What else you got besides opinions.:zzz:

[martini]

OK, lemme go dig out the QBP book(I'm pulling this out of my head after 3 yrs of not working at QBP)...after lunch, gotta run to the shop. We all know that Campy is more reliable and lasts longer....My whole point is that Campy parts are no harder to get than Shimano parts. And it sounds like you know should know this. :p

[SilverAthlon]

I have no argument about getting a hold of shimano parts vs. campy. My thing is, any LBS is most likely to have shimano parts on hand vs. campy. Less downtime makes happier riders. Depending on how a shop orders (and if they want to pay shipping) sometimes it's a week before parts arrive, even from QBP.

but yes some of campy's line is nicer. BUT is average joe rider going to see a difference? Probably not. Ergonomics and preference will prevail in this situation.

So you worked at QBP?? I'd like to work a desk job there in the IT dept. Do you have any ins' there that could see if there's job openings? do you work at a shop now?

[martini]

Originally posted by SilverAthlon
I have no argument about getting a hold of shimano parts vs. campy. My thing is, any LBS is most likely to have shimano parts on hand vs. campy. Less downtime makes happier riders. Depending on how a shop orders (and if they want to pay shipping) sometimes it's a week before parts arrive, even from QBP.


You may be right to a point here. Not many shop will stock Campy, not many average shops. The higher quality ones in the metro will be sure to have many of the more common parts on hand. If you order from QBP in Minnesota before noon, you WILL get your part(s) the next day. If you order after noon, you'll get it in two days. Not much down time there, eh?

so you worked at QBP?? I'd like to work a desk job there in the IT dept. Do you have any ins' there that could see if there's job openings? do you work at a shop now? [/B]

Yep. Put in three years or so. Great people to work with. I still know people there, but not well enough for an 'in'. Your best bet would be to just walk in and ask. That's what I did to get my job there... They like to hire talented, passionate people. And the benefits :D , well, they're errrmm, good.

[SPR]

I also believe steel is the best choice for frame material. They have improved steel technology that weight is not an issue.
I have always ridden steel road bikes and 2 years ago I once again ordered a steel frame. I thought of Titanium but the cost was too high. I also wanted a steel fork but it came with carbon fiber, steel forks are fairly rare. Anyhow I wanted a steel frame because it tends to weigh more and I use road riding as training for offroad riding. When my bike arrived I was blown away by how light it was.
I also recomend Campy over Shimano. Campy has much better quality. Shimano is popular because they have spent more money on marketing. Shimano makes good offroad components but Campy is the better road choice.
As a side note I believe Lance was the first winner of the TdF to use Shimano components. Up until he started winning Campy was the componet of the winners. (And look at the problems he had with his brakes and pedals this year.)

[martini]

Originally posted by SPR
As a side note I believe Lance was the first winner of the TdF to use Shimano components. Up until he started winning Campy was the componet of the winners. (And look at the problems he had with his brakes and pedals this year.)

This is true. Before Lance (BL), Shimano had NO TDF victories, some stage wins, but not an overall win. It was basically ALL Campy. Shimano has won some of the smaller tours, but not the big dance in France. I think the problems he had with his parts leads back to his mechanics actually. I bet they got a good verbal lashing too!

[SilverAthlon]

Yeah you can get it within 2 days, but that's assuming the shop orders it right away( i guess unless they pass the shipping cost on to the buyer).... not all shops just up and make 20 orders a week... usually they'll pool them so they have something to make it worth their while I think that quality right now has a $200 base until you get free shipping...

[Trevize1138]

I'm certainly no expet on road biking, but seems to me frame geometry hasn't changed much in the past 20 or 30 years, so if you get a steel frame from the late '80s, I don't see how you can go wrong. ;)

Now, cost really isn't an issue for me, either. If I really wanted, I could pick up a $5K carbon frame bike. My question about that, though, is WHY, GOD WHY!?!?? ;) I would much prefer outfitting my '80s model lugged, steel Schwinn with better components, hit the road and prove the addage: "It's not the bike, it's the engine."

I'm kind of a reverse snob in that way: why impress them with how much money you spent when you could impress them with how fast you're going on a shoestring budget? I guess I'm a big fan of under-estimation. ;)

That, and I love working on bikes, so it's just too fun to keep swapping out parts, trying out rise bars instead of drop bars, maybe getting some knobbies and hitting the river trail some day ... If you really are going to use a road bike strictly as cross-training to help out with your mountain biking (and for the occasional change-of-pace) why waste money needlessly when very affordible will do?

[gopherhockey]

I was kinda thinking that Trek time trials bike looked pretty kick a$$... and only around 5k or so! ;)

You know... for all the time trials I'll be riding here in and around Eagan...

[BrightYellow]

Well then John, this should work nicely for you:

http://www.litespeed.com/english/bikes/blade.html

[Kingbozo]

If you want to go all out you can always check out Waterford http://www.waterfordbikes.com

My dad got one through Twin Ports Cyclery in Duluth a couple of years ago-beautiful bike-polished stainless steel lugs, full Campy Record group, Rolf wheel set, mmmmmmm.

He spent a fortune but man o man is it nice. Custom sized to fit him perfectly.

[GearDaddy]

Originally posted by Trevize1138
I'm certainly no expet on road biking, but seems to me frame geometry hasn't changed much in the past 20 or 30 years, so if you get a steel frame from the late '80s, I don't see how you can go wrong. ;)

Now, cost really isn't an issue for me, either. If I really wanted, I could pick up a $5K carbon frame bike. My question about that, though, is WHY, GOD WHY!?!?? ;) I would much prefer outfitting my '80s model lugged, steel Schwinn with better components, hit the road and prove the addage: "It's not the bike, it's the engine."

I'm kind of a reverse snob in that way: why impress them with how much money you spent when you could impress them with how fast you're going on a shoestring budget? I guess I'm a big fan of under-estimation. ;)

That, and I love working on bikes, so it's just too fun to keep swapping out parts, trying out rise bars instead of drop bars, maybe getting some knobbies and hitting the river trail some day ... If you really are going to use a road bike strictly as cross-training to help out with your mountain biking (and for the occasional change-of-pace) why waste money needlessly when very affordible will do?

Ah! There's a fine line between being practical and just being cheap. :) My advice: Don't chince yourself. But it is all about the quality of the ride, not how shiny or light the bike is.

My main road bike for years was 86 Trek 560, which is a steel lugged frame with steel fork and Shimano 105 parts. It's a fine bike that I eventually improved upon by upgrading the wheels, drivetrain, and adding 7-speed Sachs Ergo shifters (for only $30). It wasn't until a few years ago that I replaced it with a Colnago Tecnos, which I bought used. I totally regret not getting a much nicer bike like the Colnago much sooner, because I *want* to ride the bike so much more. I am not any faster on the Colnago, in fact I was a faster rider when I was 25 years old and only weighed 145 lbs. But that's not the point.

I have a total retro-grouch friend - Rivendell frame, Brooks saddle, tubulars, friction shifters, toe-straps, "classic" Campy parts (i.e. over 10 years old), et.al. He just swears by this sweet ride as the way to go. I can sympathize, but I just gotta chuckle because, believe it or not, there have been some recent innovations that are genuine improvements. For instance, there's no way you're going to convince me that Ergo/STI integrated shift levers are not a huge improvement over friction shifters.

Yes, road bike geometries have not changed much. There are still plenty of 80's and older classic bikes out there that are great rides, especially the italian frames (e.g. Colnago, DeRosa, Masi, etc.). I like to work on bikes too, but I think that's the biggest downside to getting one of those older bikes, as you'll likely run into difficulties with compatibility/availibility of parts (believe me - I've been there).

I firmly believe that bikes made today are better in general, and I think they owe it in great part to the boom in mountain bikes. The MTB industry really drove the development of alternative frame materials and better quality construction to produce lighter and more resilient bikes, and that development spilled over into road bikes. The industry is also very competitive right now, so there's a lot of good deals out there for the consumer at good prices. So, get a new bike, eh!

[Trevize1138]

Dan:

That is a very good point about having a bike you will *want* to ride, not necessarily just a bike that you think looks cool. I'm sure that applies to guys buying $5K bikes for snob appeal or guys like me riding relics for the luddite appeal. :)

That does seem to be a recurring theme in this discussion, too: ride what *fits* you best, both in terms of sizing, comfort and use. Technically, this means the decision between a $5K brand new bike and a $70 used bike purchased over eBay would strictly come down to comfort. If the $5K bike rides the best for you, buy it. If the $70 bike fits like a glove, go with that one (bikes that fall somewhere in the middle of those two prices excepted for sake of argument.)

Of course, if you buy a $5K bike and later discover you *hate* riding it, you're out $5K. If you buy a $70 bike and discover you hate *that,* you're only out $70 and are free to go out and purchase the $5K bike. ;)

That may be something you'll want to find out first too, John: do you actually like road biking? Best way to find out may be to find a friend willing to lend a bike to you for a week, get it sized right and go on a few 3-hour rides. :)

[funky-funky-chicken]

Originally posted by GearDaddy
I can sympathize, but I just gotta chuckle because, believe it or not, there have been some recent innovations that are genuine improvements. For instance, there's no way you're going to convince me that Ergo/STI integrated shift levers are not a huge improvement over friction shifters.

I had to laugh at this bit of wisdom. I recently sold my 16 pound superlight carbon fiber OCLV Trek with Dura Ace and STI so that could buy a custom Rivendell with friction shifters. There is something to be said about the simplicity of things that you know will always work, guess that is why I like singlespeeds too!

John, don't plan on buying the perfect road bike the first time around. Being a Rivendell fan, I would recommend that you check them out. http://www.rivendellbicycles.com Kenwood in Minneapolis is a local stocking dealer for their production bikes.

[GearDaddy]

Originally posted by funky-funky-chicken
I had to laugh at this bit of wisdom. I recently sold my 16 pound superlight carbon fiber OCLV Trek with Dura Ace and STI so that could buy a custom Rivendell with friction shifters.

Aha! Dura Ace STI was the problem! [now resuming endless Campy vs. Shimano debate] :laugh:

C'est la vie! More power to you. Simplicity is good. It's good to have choices, and now we have more than ever.

[SilverAthlon]

Blah blah.

[martini]

Campagnolo or Death!

J/k of course. I don't wanna die! And John, if you DO get Shimano, be prepared for endless ribbing.

[grizzly adam]

John,

Do you shave your legs already?? If not, you better start warmin' up the razor!!

he he

[SilverAthlon]

you guys, stop it :eyeroll: JonDog, get what you can afford, and what you think fits/performs best/is comfortable.

minus 1 bananna :banana: for you martini...

[martini]

Ah, no matter. Don't like the banana dude anyways. Credit does go ou to you though. You're the first one to get my name right! Always starts with a lower case 'm'. Not upper. Thanks for that one!

And I will give a good ribbing. :D

[gopherhockey]

Ok, so I went over to Penn today just to get the feel for a road bike... I rode a Trek 5200 (carbon frame) and it seemed really nice. Price was right around what I'd want to spend on a "first road bike" - however, nobody has suggested this as a model. I wouldn't buy a Trek mountain bike either... however, I do want to get a road bike from a LBS unlike what I do with my mountain bikes.

Anyone have any comments on the Trek 5200 (04' model) ?

http://www.trekbikes.com/bikes/2004/road/5200.jsp

Being an old Cannondale fan, I also like this bike - but it would run a bit more:

http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/03/cusa/model-3RR5K.html

This is a case where I'm suckered in by the bikes looks... yes yes, call me a poser - it fits... ;)

[mtnbykr]

john,

doesn't make any difference who makes it, if it fits you and you like it [and sometimes if the $$ is right...], buy it. trek makes nice road/mtn bikes . the only dofference btween bikes is the frame. all the parts are the same or can be changed.

if you're truly gonna spend any time at all on a rb, make sure it fits and feels very good.

if money is no object, go look at the specialized s-works made out of their e-5 tubing. the ride is excellent and the bike is as alight as a feather.

k

ps. the trek is a really nice bike, as long as it [i]fits....

[jeffgude]

Ok John, if you're going to go with high end stuff you have to at least look at these:



http://www.kleinbikes.com/bicycles/bikes.asp?p=1022 (http://)


http://www.kleinbikes.com/bicycles/bikes.asp?p=1024 (http://)

the main differences betwen the two are whether you prefer a traditional road frame (flat top tube or a compact frame (sloping top tube)

You could also check out the Q-Pro Carbon Team, but you're looking at nearly $4k for that one. Bokoo Bikes, Freewheel and Boehm's Cycle (St Paul) all carry Klein.

You can special-order Kleins in various special paint jobs, see here:

http://www.kleinbikes.com/custom/palette.asp (http://)

Cannondales are ok, Trek has never really interested me too much.

[grizzly adam]

I've heard lots of nice things about the Trek Carbon frames. Very comfortable to ride and not too harsh on the bumps. And they looks cool! I rode a carbon Trek for many years, albeit a much older frame, but I was pleased with its performance (so was someone else, as they took it from me).

Cannondale frames have come a long way as far as technology and comfort. The old frames used to beat the piss out of you - now they are responsive and smooth. I like the Cannondales cuz they always feel like they just want to go. They're nice and light and look cool also.

I'd say that you have a couple good choices. How much did you ride them? Where you wearing cycling shorts? It may sound funny, but go ahead and wear your shorts to the store and give 'em both a go for a couple miles.

What sizes are you looking at?

[funky-funky-chicken]

John, I have owned one of the Trek OCLV road bikes. I had a 5900 with Dura Ace, slightly more expensive than the 5200, but overall, same frame design. I have also owned a couple of Kestrel road bikes. Mix in some different steel frames and having ridden a number of aluminum road bikes too...

I REALLY like the feel of the Trek carbon frames. They make for extremely comfortable bikes. The carbon while making for a very strong and stiff frame, seems to absorb a fair amount of road vibration and shock without feeling "Dead."

The OCLV Trek was always first choice from the stable when it came to longer rides, centuries, and double centuries.

If you are looking at the 5200 and not flinching at the price, there are a wealth of choices for you and even more opinions. The best advice that I can offer is make sure that you get the right size and try out lots of different bikes. Bring your cycling clothes and go for a 10-15 minute ride on each of your top selections.

[gopherhockey]

Originally posted by grizzly adam


I'd say that you have a couple good choices. How much did you ride them? Where you wearing cycling shorts? It may sound funny, but go ahead and wear your shorts to the store and give 'em both a go for a couple miles.

What sizes are you looking at?

I wasn't in cycling clothes, but thats a good tip. Being new to the road scene it is difficult to get a sense of what feels good - they all feel not so great as I'm not used to sitting in that position. It feels better when I put my hands on top of the bars. putting them under in the spring position hurts my hands after a while - especially if I hold them up under the bars with full access to the brakes and shifters. In this position my hands cramp up in no time.

They claim I would ride a 56 in size. It was hard to tell, but aside from how my hands felt on the bars it was like I was riding on air when I tried the carbon frame bike.

I haven't tried a Cannnondale yet - I have to get up the nerve to enter an Erik's store again in order to do that.. and I doubt they have the model I'm looking at (or would take the time to entertain selling a higher end bike). I hear good things about the Richfield store though, so maybe I'll go there.

The guys at Penn didn't even have a bike my wife could try... guess she is out of luck.

Also - the regular price at Penn for the 02' model 5200 was the same as the web site price for the 04' model. When I asked why the guy ignored my question.

[grizzly adam]

Originally posted by gopherhockey
In this position my hands cramp up in no time. :laugh: :laugh:

I'll leave that one alone!

I spend most of my time on the "hoods" of the brakes. The cool thing about road bikes is that you have lots of options and don't have to stay in one spot the whole ride.

It sounds like you had a bad time at Erik's before??
The Erik's in Richfield and the St. Louis Park store generally have the largest road bike selection. If you know you're going to stop in, ask to talk to Ed. He's a good guy and knows the road bike scene - and he's FAST. He won't BS ya.
Also, if you pick a day you're going in call ahead and see what they have/don't have. Ask them to check other stores if they don't have it - that way they can have it sent over so that you can ride both when you stop in.

If you do go to the Richfield store throw a rock at my window, I live right across the street!

[Crash]

Originally posted by gopherhockey
I have to get up the nerve to enter an Erik's store again in order to do that.. and I doubt they have the model I'm looking at (or would take the time to entertain selling a higher end bike). I hear good things about the Richfield store though, so maybe I'll go there.

John - seriously - you should go to the Richfield store. It is not a typical Erik's (or Penn for that matter).

I was just there on Saturday getting a few new spokes for my MTB (thanks to the Farm) and started drooling over this Seven (http://www.sevencycles.com/road/odonata.html)

You would want Seven to custom build it of coarse - but I think it was a 56 :D

[gopherhockey]

Originally posted by grizzly adam


If you do go to the Richfield store throw a rock at my window, I live right across the street!

Thanks for the tip on Richfield everyone... I have heard this before - it seems to be a theme that this store is not a typical Erik's store. I'll check it out.

I'll also throw that rock just for the wrist comment haha.. good one! :banana: