Brake shop/tech

[85911]

Any suggestions on where I can get my Juicy 5 brakes adjusted properly? I am having bad vibration problems mainly with the front but I can get the rears to vibrate as well.

I have boiled stock pads
Swapped pads front to rear
Cleaned rotors with Iso propl alcohol

These have helped reduce symptoms for a while, but come back in a mile or two.

Maybe I have air in the lines? I don't think so, they feel fine.

Any shop or tech specialize in brakes here in the metro? I am getting ready to pay someone soon to be rid of this.

Thanks.

[ppgc]

B Rose at Shockspital. http://shockspital.com/

[wokerhopper]

The pad seperator springs sometimes lose their springiness on the avids and if you replace those it may help, cheap fix try.

[Tomg]

Deglaze the rotor with emmery cloth.
Carefully reclean rotor & pads.
Re-bed the pads.

Also suggest you run organic pads in the midwest. We don't have enough vertcal to get semi-mettalics up to temp and that just leads to reglazing of the rotor

[soupboy]

Throw a handful of silty mud on each caliper/rotor and then do a couple high speed stops. This is more reliable and less a PITA than the alternatives. Also, it is greener.

If your brakes need to be bled that is another matter altogether.

Also, brose.

[85911]

Thanks for all the fast helpful tips!

I should also add that the bike/ brakes have only about 300 miles on them. There is plenty of pad left.

I will try the mud tip, but I like taking stuff apart.:etard:

Any suggestions on the brand of organic pads?

Seperator spring, hmmm. I will swap those front to back as well.

[Tomg]

I like Galfer pads but they can be hard to find. May need to order them. If not them then EBC "Green". I've heard Avid now offers a organic pad but I have not tried them.

I forgot, another trick someone taught me was to tighten the caliper back down while holding moderate tension on the brake and turning the wheel. This helps drive the spherical washer into a neutral position and results in better rotor pad alignment. Seems to work pretty good. I usually get no brake squeal with this alignment method where the old "pull hard on the lever and tighten the bolts" always was a bit hit or miss.

[Stonehenge]

B Rose at Shockspital. http://shockspital.com/

ehhh huhhhh careful

[ppgc]

ehhh huhhhh careful

Why is that?

[85911]

new pads worked...........................for about 5 miles then back to the same problem. Feels like anti-lock brakes up front.:banghead:

New pads and rotor disk soaking in Iso propyl alcohol. Will resurface rotor and try again!

Maybe I go to rim brakes!

[kikinik]

ehhh huhhhh careful


Whats your issue Brose??

[tedsti]

Try getting your disc tabs faced. This will reduce the chances of your caliper wobbling under load.

[gopherhockey]

Any shop or tech specialize in brakes here in the metro? I am getting ready to pay someone soon to be rid of this.

Thanks.

A lot of suggestions on how to do it yourself... but I would guess if you don't want to fuss and just want to get it fixed you'd have luck with just about any of our local bike shops.

Especially the ones that support MORC, of course ;)

[85911]

Try getting your disc tabs faced. This will reduce the chances of your caliper wobbling under load.

So is it as simple as putting my fork (Reba Race) on my mill and machining the tabs (both of them) perfectly flat with each other? Never pulled a fork off before but how hard can it be?

Like I said, the new pads worked great for a couple of laps then it slowly got worse till the point where I was back to my same problem. I think maybe the rotor was still contaminated and messed up my new pads? I may go back to rim brakes and a rigid fork at this point!

I may take it back to where I got the bike, but I do enjoy fixing stuff myself. Also I think shops are a little backed up right now.

[tedsti]

So is it as simple as putting my fork (Reba Race) on my mill and machining the tabs (both of them) perfectly flat with each other?

Yes, you want to make sure you have a flat surface to mount the brake to. Your main problem will be fixturing the fork so everything is square with the dropouts.

[soupboy]

You do not need to face the tabs if using Avids due to their CPS system - hydro or mech. That is one of the beauties of their system.

Only brake calipers having a fixed mounting plane (Hope, Hayes, Magura, etc.) necessitate having the fork and frame IS tabs faced and it does make a huge difference.

Most LBSs carry a Magura tool called a Gnanomat (sic?) for this purpose and charge a pretty reasonable fee for the provided results. I recommend Erik's in SLP.

Yes, you want to make sure you have a flat surface to mount the brake to. Your main problem will be fixturing the fork so everything is square with the dropouts.

[85911]

Put it all back together, did not face the tabs. Rode it around a bit and seems to work fine. I will have to put some miles on it to see if it is cured.

After closer examination, my rotor does have a bit of a warp to it. Maybe .030" as seen by watching it spin through the brake calliper. Not enough to cause any noticeable rubbing. Do not know what the acceptable tollerance is for a rotor. Maybe this is my problem?

The brakes are Juicy 5's matched to a 160mm rotor.

Thanks for all the help.

P.S. Soupboy,
I have tried your mud trick. While on the trail, I had a little trouble at the time finding the correct kind and consistency of said mud. Is there something on the market or is this a million dollar idea? I may try and package a slury of some in a small bottle for my next ride in case my problem comes back. Any suggestions on where to find the best mud?

[gopherhockey]

I have tried your mud trick. While on the trail, I had a little trouble at the time finding the correct kind and consitency of said mud. Any suggestions on where to find the best mud?

Hopefully there is no mud on the trail to do this with. You could always make your own using your camelbak (or other source of fluids) Perhaps use the fines from low areas/corners of a trail where rain usually drains.

[tedsti]

You do not need to face the tabs if using Avids due to their CPS system - hydro or mech. That is one of the beauties of their system.

Even with the CPS, you will benefit from facing the tabs. The CPS system will take up any mis-alignment which is one reason to face the tabs. The other reason to face the tabs is to make sure you have a flat surface to mount to. Any imperfections in the paint (high spot) can cause the caliper to rock slightly under load. CPS will not save you on this.

[85911]

Hopefully there is no mud on the trail to do this with. You could always make your own using your camelbak (or other source of fluids) Perhaps use the fines from low areas/corners of a trail where rain usually drains.

When there trails are muddy enough, I dont have this problem.:D Thats why they sell those big nobbied, mud clearing tires at my local bike store.:cool:

I think you been hanging out on that other thread too much, looking for every little misplaced word or sentence.:D

You could also deduce from my paragraph,that since I wanted to package my own mud, there must not be any on the trail?:etard: Just matters what frame of mind you are in at the time.

[gopherhockey]

You could also deduce from my paragraph,that since I wanted to package my own mud, there must not be any on the trail?:etard: Just matters what frame of mind you are in at the time.

Its all good. I was kidding more than anything.. but seriously, the fines would make for good silty mud I think. They are always there even when it isn't wet out there...

Didn't mean to preach. ;)

[soupboy]

High paint = scrap of sandpaper, not removing metal.

Even with the CPS, you will benefit from facing the tabs. The CPS system will take up any mis-alignment which is one reason to face the tabs. The other reason to face the tabs is to make sure you have a flat surface to mount to. Any imperfections in the paint (high spot) can cause the caliper to rock slightly under load. CPS will not save you on this.

[soupboy]

Some really silty/fine River Bottom's flavor works best IME. If the particles are too large you could take small chunks out of the pads - not bad, just sub optimal.

This million dollar idea came to me gratis years ago from the techs at both Speedgoat and Hope.

YMMV

P.S. Soupboy, I have tried your mud trick. While on the trail, I had a little trouble at the time finding the correct kind and consistency of said mud. Is there something on the market or is this a million dollar idea? I may try and package a slury of some in a small bottle for my next ride in case my problem comes back. Any suggestions on where to find the best mud?

[85911]

new pads worked...........................for about 5 miles then back to the same problem. Feels like anti-lock brakes up front.:banghead:

New pads and rotor disk soaking in Iso propyl alcohol. Will resurface rotor and try again!

Maybe I go to rim brakes!

Update:

I beveled my rotors per mtb website thread. That is I dremmeled all the edges of the slots in rotors to break the sharp edges. I have about 4 laps at murphy on them and so far so good.

Thanks for all the suggestions.