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View Full Version : tips/suggestions for installing a new chain?


bwsmithcom
04-15-2008, 11:58 AM
i'm interested in any tips/suggestions for installing a new chain. i'm a newbie home mechanic and have not done this before.

background info: i've upgrade my bike from an 8 speed to a 9 speed (new cassette, shifters and chain). i hope to install the new chain this weekend and looking for any advice to get it installed correctly.

side note: i now know what a pin spanner is and how to use it! :)

lostboy
04-15-2008, 12:13 PM
if you haven't already check this link.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=25

Slimpee
04-15-2008, 12:31 PM
Perhaps it will be made easier w/ a "quick-connect" chain. I have a SRAM version and taking it on-and-off is wicked easy.

This doesn't really solve the initial measurement and set-up, though, and is more for future cleaning/maintenance purposes.

Ish
04-15-2008, 12:34 PM
The park tool site is an excellent reference. In addition to the link below, make sure you get the chain the right length. Park should have a guide on that, but you could also measure the length of your old one and make it the same.

OCary
04-15-2008, 12:46 PM
Park guide on chain length: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26

batjerk
04-15-2008, 12:57 PM
Sheldon Brown (http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain) recommends the large/large combination method for chain length. You might want to "book mark" his site for future reference.

jlk_250
04-15-2008, 03:37 PM
You can use a SRAM Power Link connector on either SRAM or Shimano chains. Makes it super easy to take it off for repairs or cleaning and the gold color makes a good reference for knowing when you've made it all the way around the chain when lubricating it. Buy a spare for trailside emergency chain repair.

RichZilla
04-15-2008, 09:53 PM
If you're putting a Shimano chain on, try to clean it very thoroughly with a degreaser first. Shimano chains are full of tiny metal shavings from the manufacturing process. Those metals bits will stay in the chain forever and be grinding in places where grinding shouldn't be happening.

SRAM chains are pretty clean right out of the package.

My usual process for a new chain is:
(I realize you most likely will not have access to most of these methods, I'm just giving you an example of how I do it)
1. Soak the chain in parts washer fluid (degreaser) for 2 hours
2. Thoroughly clean the chain with brushes in a parts washer
3. Completely dry the chain in an industrial oven at 200F degrees
4. Soak the chain in ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) at 150F degrees for 30 minutes. The ATF has detergent properties.
5. Slosh the chain around vigorously until the ATF pulls the rest of the dirty stuff out of the chain. It should turn from reddish to brownish, then you know it's removing the gunk.
6. Remove the chain from the ATF and let it cool a little bit. Then wipe it as dry as you can get it with shop rags. Sometimes you can lay the chain out on some rags, and use a little air hose action to gently blow the residual ATF out.
7. Install the chain on the bike according to the manufacturer's instructions.
8. Generously lube the chain very frequently the first few times you ride. You need to give it a little extra at first to get the lube all the way into the bushings.

I like to use the White Lightning lube.

Good Luck!

Stonehenge
04-15-2008, 10:57 PM
Wow rich ! ! ! I am tired just reading this one. But I bet it is a kick azz way to do it. Your right in that not many of us have this equip avail.

Shemono chains and many others are greased while new...this preserves the item from manufature until sold ( to you the end user ). So degrease, dry and lube are a good idea before use. Yes you can just slap it on the bike and ride too. It may be the longevety you will miss out on.

I like to use a small sealed container, place chain in and add degreaser then shake vigorously. Repeat. Then add small amount of water and shake to rinse. Repeat a few times till pours out clear. ( I do this on thourogh cleanings during the season too. ) I hang the chain and use compressed air to dry then let hang over night if possible . Then lube while hanging...trickle down effect... then grab ends of chain and manipulate n surpintine movements to work lube it and let hang overnight..

The enclosed bottle and shake will clean your chain much better than a chain cleaning machine alone. If chain is real bad I use this first the the bottle - you will see what I mean as so much more comes out in the bottle.

This method is not too time consuming. I like a 2 ball racquet ball bottle with screww top....its about a small as you can go and works great.

If you're putting a Shimano chain on, try to clean it very thoroughly with a degreaser first. Shimano chains are full of tiny metal shavings from the manufacturing process. Those metals bits will stay in the chain forever and be grinding in places where grinding shouldn't be happening.

SRAM chains are pretty clean right out of the package.

My usual process for a new chain is:
(I realize you most likely will not have access to most of these methods, I'm just giving you an example of how I do it)
1. Soak the chain in parts washer fluid (degreaser) for 2 hours
2. Thoroughly clean the chain with brushes in a parts washer
3. Completely dry the chain in an industrial oven at 200F degrees
4. Soak the chain in ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) at 150F degrees for 30 minutes. The ATF has detergent properties.
5. Slosh the chain around vigorously until the ATF pulls the rest of the dirty stuff out of the chain. It should turn from reddish to brownish, then you know it's removing the gunk.
6. Remove the chain from the ATF and let it cool a little bit. Then wipe it as dry as you can get it with shop rags. Sometimes you can lay the chain out on some rags, and use a little air hose action to gently blow the residual ATF out.
7. Install the chain on the bike according to the manufacturer's instructions.
8. Generously lube the chain very frequently the first few times you ride. You need to give it a little extra at first to get the lube all the way into the bushings.

I like to use the White Lightning lube.

Good Luck!

RedSquirrel
04-16-2008, 07:33 AM
The gearies at RAG said if you pee on your bike it's good for slush and freeze crud.

Therefore I suggest pee'ing on your new chain instead of that fake white lightning.

4Screws
04-18-2008, 02:33 PM
holy crap!...:nono:

yeah just put the thing on dude. the shimano packing grease is sticky, but just throw some wet lube at it and call it a day.

If you're putting a Shimano chain on, try to clean it very thoroughly with a degreaser first. Shimano chains are full of tiny metal shavings from the manufacturing process. Those metals bits will stay in the chain forever and be grinding in places where grinding shouldn't be happening.

SRAM chains are pretty clean right out of the package.

My usual process for a new chain is:
(I realize you most likely will not have access to most of these methods, I'm just giving you an example of how I do it)
1. Soak the chain in parts washer fluid (degreaser) for 2 hours
2. Thoroughly clean the chain with brushes in a parts washer
3. Completely dry the chain in an industrial oven at 200F degrees
4. Soak the chain in ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) at 150F degrees for 30 minutes. The ATF has detergent properties.
5. Slosh the chain around vigorously until the ATF pulls the rest of the dirty stuff out of the chain. It should turn from reddish to brownish, then you know it's removing the gunk.
6. Remove the chain from the ATF and let it cool a little bit. Then wipe it as dry as you can get it with shop rags. Sometimes you can lay the chain out on some rags, and use a little air hose action to gently blow the residual ATF out.
7. Install the chain on the bike according to the manufacturer's instructions.
8. Generously lube the chain very frequently the first few times you ride. You need to give it a little extra at first to get the lube all the way into the bushings.

I like to use the White Lightning lube.

Good Luck!

RichZilla
04-18-2008, 07:41 PM
holy crap!...:nono:

yeah just put the thing on dude. the shimano packing grease is sticky, but just throw some wet lube at it and call it a day.

Definitely works that way too. that's how I put the first 20 or 30 chains on.:D

The only reason I do it like that now, is because I can. Got it all at the shop. I did it once like that just to see how much 'bad stuff' was in a new chain. I was surprised. In the long run it probably only makes a 5% to 10% difference in drivetrain longevity. You'd probably have a catastrophic failure before that anyway.:mad:

The main reason to clean it first is to remove all the 'preservation grease'. That grease is very sticky, and it will attract a lot of dust and dirt that you do not want on your chain. Even if the dirt doesn't make it's way into the bushings of the chain, it will be on the outside of the chain where it contacts the gears and sprockets. This will cause your sprockets to wear much more rapidly, which means you will be buying them more frequently, which means it costs you more money. BUT, you ask, how much faster will it wear out the sprockets? Again, you probably wouldn't be required to cahnge them sooner, they would just have more wear on them when you did change them.

4Screws
04-21-2008, 02:09 PM
Definitely works that way too. that's how I put the first 20 or 30 chains on.:D

The only reason I do it like that now, is because I can. Got it all at the shop. I did it once like that just to see how much 'bad stuff' was in a new chain. I was surprised. In the long run it probably only makes a 5% to 10% difference in drivetrain longevity. You'd probably have a catastrophic failure before that anyway.:mad:

The main reason to clean it first is to remove all the 'preservation grease'. That grease is very sticky, and it will attract a lot of dust and dirt that you do not want on your chain. Even if the dirt doesn't make it's way into the bushings of the chain, it will be on the outside of the chain where it contacts the gears and sprockets. This will cause your sprockets to wear much more rapidly, which means you will be buying them more frequently, which means it costs you more money. BUT, you ask, how much faster will it wear out the sprockets? Again, you probably wouldn't be required to cahnge them sooner, they would just have more wear on them when you did change them.


yeah I completely understand why to completely clean the chain, but when I throw on some fresh lube, it breaks up some of the skicky schtuff... dude I'm lazy... I can find the easiest way to do anything. :zzz: