Extreme Tire Studding

[bigwheel]

When too much is not quite enough...

http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/data/500/ExtremeTireStudding.jpg

This is the last WTB Timberwolf 2.7 ever. WTB discontinued it, and sold their entire remaining stock to Nashbar, for clearance (cheap). I ordered 2, but they only had one left.

The tire is destined for the back of the Pugsley for times when there is new snow on top of packed trail. In those conditions, we've had traction problems with the Endomorphs. I'm hoping that the rubber will pack down the snow enough so that the studs can find the ice and dirt below. Not sure what I'm going to do in the front, but might stick with the Endomorph, but also have monster studs.

I sealed up the screw heads with silicon, so that I won't need a liner. The screws are Truss-Head, which have a nice big head that is cupped to dig into the rubber. With the backing nut, they won't wiggle. (This technique worked well on the studded Endomorphs) I'll probably use a monster Endomorph tube, so that there will be very little stretch.

After I mount the tire on the Large marges and put them on the Pug, I'll decide how much I need to cut off. If there is enough room within the chain stays, I plan to leave around 1/2 inch of metal on top of the 1/4 inch of knob+nut. That means that I'll probably cut the visible portion in half. 3/4 inch total stud length. :cool: Definitely not for pavement.

Unfortunately, it'll probably be next year before we'll have good enough conditions to give them a test ride. So, this project might sit on the shelf until next year.

[batjerk]

So, you gunna cut them off square, or put points on 'em? What size screws are those, #10?

[tedsti]

The current form is optimized for low rolling resistance of course.:D

[dave t]

Just like with his lights, for Bob, too much is never quite enough.:banana::banana:

That is one badass looking tire.

[bigwheel]

Those are #8 screws. I plan to cut them with a bolt cutter, which leaves a nice point on it. However, they are not optimized for glare ice, so pointy ends are not very necessary.

Decreased rolling resistance is not the goal. These will only be used for those times when I normally get stuck spinning out, and can't keep vertical.

You probably won't see these tires racing the Chilly Chilie.

[batjerk]

Well, that's certainly easier than my cartoon-bubble which had Bob cutting each screw with a dremel tool putting a nice, fine, conical point on each one.:banana:

[Tower]

Team Ricoh is jealous of the knob/ stud combo setup for the Pug... None of us (except the Red Squirl) are organized enough to ever bring out such a weapon as that...

But I would like to get my hands on a tread like that for use... I recall getting smoked pretty good by you Thursday night guys running those tires.. Was like I was standing still with the 4" baldy's... Good work.

[JHM]

When too much is not quite enough...
I sealed up the screw heads with silicon, so that I won't need a liner.
Unfortunately, it'll probably be next year before we'll have good enough conditions to give them a test ride. So, this project might sit on the shelf until next year.

Amorphous or crystalline?;)

At first I thought maybe it was already April 1st, but since it is only the 3rd of March you will probably still have a good chance to try them this year.

[Crash]

Demerit points for now empties in the background. That had to have been at least a sixer project.

[bigwheel]

Demerit points for now empties in the background. That had to have been at least a sixer project.

Should have been. But if the pictures showed the entire workbench, every picture would have a coffee cup in it. I did the work on Sat-Sun mornings before I was ready to choke down any beer.

It was definitely tougher to deal with the screw+nuts, rather than self-tapping screws. I thought the whole project would take less than 2 hours, but I ended up with more like 4 hours all said and done. Way too much work.

Of course, I didn't get the process down until I was just about done. The trick was to clamp a furring strip to the workbench, and drill a 1/4 inch hole near the end of the strip. Then, let the stud go through the hole, holding the nut in place while I bear down on the drill.

[Gingerdawg]

Note to self: Do NOT fall in front of Bob at a winter night ride!:crazy2::crazy2::crazy2:

[jeffgude]

Those are #8 screws. I plan to cut them with a bolt cutter, which leaves a nice point on it

You are going to have some sore arms cutting that many bolts.

[RichZilla]

Wow. Now that's impressive.

[DareDevilDarin]

hey bob looks nice ! but if you want as much stud though tire you should maybe start with small tire and get more clearance to get the studs out? dont know what you have on your bike but you may not end up with much after trimming to fit the chain stays? if you are looking for just on snow running send me you info at 4dsnowbike and I will send you some paddles and backer plates this summer to really pedal the snow and ice next winter, also have a great liner that goes in your tire in seconds to keep tube off of screws, haven't blow a tube yet and no tape required!

[bigwheel]

hey bob looks nice ! but if you want as much stud though tire you should maybe start with small tire and get more clearance to get the studs out? dont know what you have on your bike but you may not end up with much after trimming to fit the chain stays? if you are looking for just on snow running send me you info at 4dsnowbike and I will send you some paddles and backer plates this summer to really pedal the snow and ice next winter, also have a great liner that goes in your tire in seconds to keep tube off of screws, haven't blow a tube yet and no tape required!

Thanks, Darin. The tire is going into a Pugsley, so there's quite a bit of room. They normally hold a 3.7inch Endomorph, and I made a couple of spacers to hold the wheel all the way back (horizontal dropouts). So, I don't think there is going to be an issue with that.

I thought about paddles. On MTBR, someone posted up pictures of homebrew paddles on an Endomorph, made from flexible conduit split ih half and rivited to the tire. Looked like I could just add paddles to my setup but I decided against it. The guy on MTBR says that his paddles work up to about 4-5 inches of snow. I'm thinking that in 4-5 inches, the snow will compress enough for the studs to find hard ground underneath. We'll see.

Regarding liners, I don't plan to use them. Since the truss head is cupped and it is held tight into the tire with nuts, I don't get the normal bounce and wiggle on the screws heads. So, all I did was squirt some silicone on top of the screw heads. I've been running this way on the studded Endomorphs all year without liners, and there aren't even any cracks in the silicone. I'm pretty sure this will work on the new tires.

I'm hoping that I won't need a backing plate. The truss heads are pretty big. But if I'm wrong, I'm screwed.

Anyway, thanks for the advice. I've seen the videos of your snow bike. Looks way cool.

[jjrsds]

Bob, could you come over later this spring and do some core aeration of my lawn with those things? Maybe I can just borrow the wheels. :D