Two hub questions

[bigwheel]

1: Is there a conversion kit to turn a Chris King front QR into a 20mm thru axle?

2: What is the best (bullet-proof) rear hub? My main problem is breaking the ratchet mechanism in the cassettes. I have an ugly start-stop-start... hammer pedaling style/habit that is tough on hubs. So far, I've gone through:
- one Shimano XT cassette
- one bent XT axle
- three Phil Wood cassettes
- one Chris King cassette

I prefer a hub with lots of engagement points (like King) if possible. Any suggestions?

[Magic]

I think King has a conversion kit for the front hub.

And as for the rear hub issue. You might want to try looking at the Hope Pro 2 or DT 240 from DTswiss or the one I have been waiting on forever, a Stealth Hub, but they never have them in stock. This hub has instant engagement, way better than any other hub I've seen. But like I said, getting one is the tought part. Here is their site: http://www.trueprecision.net/bikenews.html

[bigwheel]

Sounds like a cool hub that might solve my problem, depending on what "zero backlash" really means. But the price is past my flinch point.

I can see why you are having a hard time getting it. Under their hub order line:
* in testing - available soon! *

[bigwheel]

I've also been reading reviews of the Pro-2 where people are breaking the cassette. They are saying that the Bulb is a better hub.

[berrywise]

Jamie, from Sunrise Cyclery, was just in and he asked if you had ever looked at using an XT tandem hub. It wouldn't look or feel any different than the XT's you have used but they are designed for a lot more abuse than your regular style hubs.

[tedsti]

The Hope Pro II is the easiest to convert to 20mm for the front. I am not sure the King can be converted,

For rear hubs, check out Hadley or I9.

[bigwheel]

Jamie, from Sunrise Cyclery, was just in and he asked if you had ever looked at using an XT tandem hub. It wouldn't look or feel any different than the XT's you have used but they are designed for a lot more abuse than your regular style hubs.

Tandem hubs have 145mm width, and I'm not sure that the cassette is different than MTB XT's.

[berrywise]

Tandem hubs have 145mm width, and I'm not sure that the cassette is different than MTB XT's.

You can space them down to 135 but I admit I have never done it so I wouldn't be much help. And I thought the tandem hubs had four pawls instead of two but once again I'm just going on a bad memory :)

[tedsti]

And I thought the tandem hubs had four pawls instead of two but once again I'm just going on a bad memory :)
Why not just put a tandem freehub body on a regular XT hub then. What I really want to know is if the new 36 pt XT FHB will fit older XT hubs.

[Stonehenge]

2 comments-
1 -the more teath the smaller they are...think less bite
2 - why not use a solid down hill hub

big guys need big equipment. Buy right or break it and buy more and more.

Clydesdales have big feet for a reason

[WKWizard]

Check Hadley and Phil Wood.

[Ish]

I am not sure the King can be converted

I don't think so either. Give CK a call and at the same time ask them about their rear hub strength.:cryin:

[Ish]

- three Phil Wood cassettes


Check ...Phil Wood.

I'm thinking "3 strikes and your out".

[bigwheel]

Check Hadley and Phil Wood.

Not familiar with Hadley, but I've broken three Phil Wood hubs already. (note my original post) They have had great customer service, but I'm looking for something that doesn't break in the first place. I've given up on Phil cassettes. They are going to swap me for a single-speed hub, so that the problem moves to the freewheel, which I have spares in my toolbox.

2 comments-
1 -the more teath the smaller they are...think less bite
2 - why not use a solid down hill hub

big guys need big equipment. Buy right or break it and buy more and more.

Clydesdales have big feet for a reason


1: I've heard both ways. True about smaller teeth, but the hub won't have as much momentum when it engages.
2: I don't know that a downhill hub cassette mechanism is any different. Downhillers are mostly coasting, so the cassette is not a usual breaking point.

Again, that was my reason for using an expensive Phil hub that weighs 579 grams.

I still have a glimmer of hope for the CK. Their engagement was working fine for me when it broke. It was something else that went, causing a lot of racket when I was coasting. (more than usual)

[kikinik]

Ive been really happy with White industries,
disc 20mm front, and the disc rear.
The steel freehub body, 15mm hub axles, and sexy

I beat the piss out of it.(250lbs)
As you most likely know, their freewheels are incredible.
And great C.S.


Matt

[bigwheel]

Thanks, Matt. I've also been happy with their ENO freewheel.

[WKWizard]

You've broken 3 Phil Woods? Wow. I assume you mean you've broken the freehub/ratchet mechanism and not the actual cassette.

[bigwheel]

You've broken 3 Phil Woods? Wow. I assume you mean you've broken the freehub/ratchet mechanism and not the actual cassette.

Correct. Twice, it completely broke loose (as in coasting in either direction), leaving me stranded. In Fruita, several miles out in the hills, it started intermittently turning itself into a fixie. I was able to ride out, but it's not the kind of fun I want when on vacation.

Otherwise, the Phil Wood stuff has been perfect. My road bike still has the hubs that I bought back in 1973. (freewheel style) I even borrowed the front road bike hub and laced it up to a Rhyno rim for my MTB one season, then returned it to my road bike. Still as smooth as the day I bought it.

[WKWizard]

I hear ya. I used to race Phil Wood back in the day and never had a problem. I've had some of the same issues as you when it comes to mtb freehub reliability. Some freehubs don't use strong enough springs. A retrofit (better springs) might be something to keep in mind.

As crazy as it sounds, the most reliable rear mtb hub I've owned was an old STX with an expanding shim system rather than the pawl & ratchet. It was a silent hub with very quick engagement. I've had crap luck since. Currently riding a SRAM 9.0 rear. It hasn't failed yet but, the engagement is slow...20 degrees.

[Magic]

If you didn't like the price on the Stealth, then you won't like the price on the Hadley's. But they do make a great set of hubs.

And as for the White Industry, I'd stay away from them. I already broke two of there rear hubs. I still have one in a bag in my tool box to remind me not to go with them again. But the front hub from White was and is still running strong. But it is a front hub and not much can go wrong with it.

[kikinik]

You guys all deserve a round of applause for breaking some of the best parts the industry has to offer.

[dvo1]

I ride like; Tires are rolling on rice paper. never had a hub go bad.


Now the Chinese take-out in my fridge on the other hand,.....

[iceskier]

Here is a link to the Turner board on MTBR where the Hope ProII -vs- CK came up.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=372457

The CK is not convertible to 20mm.

[bigwheel]

The CK is not convertible to 20mm.

Thanks. I just verified this with an email to Chris King. Their response:
Unfortunately due to shell design, it is not possible to turn a quick release to a 20mm thru axle.

[crux]

Thanks. I just verified this with an email to Chris King. Their response:

With the king your SOL on converting to a 20mm front hub.

As for the rear hub thought that we picked up the heavy duty version and it failed? Dang Bob what do you do to these poor parts. I9 "Claim" that they have yet to see a hub failure regardless in the lab or from the field. It might be worth a shot, but I hate to see you throw more $$$ at a part with out actually knowing it will be good.

Nice of Brent to swap out the Phil for a SS version. On the threads make sure you lube them up good, one so you can get the freewheel off and two so you don't spin the threads.

Also check your PM.

[bigwheel]

The hub I broke was the lighter type. But my understanding is that the ratchet is the same as the heavy duty one.

With the king your SOL on converting to a 20mm front hub.

As for the rear hub thought that we picked up the heavy duty version and it failed? Dang Bob what do you do to these poor parts. I9 "Claim" that they have yet to see a hub failure regardless in the lab or from the field. It might be worth a shot, but I hate to see you throw more $$$ at a part with out actually knowing it will be good.

Nice of Brent to swap out the Phil for a SS version. On the threads make sure you lube them up good, one so you can get the freewheel off and two so you don't spin the threads.

Also check your PM.