Warped Rotors

[bpblondie]

I have noticed that my rotors are out of true and will rub the pads while I'm riding.

How can I fix this? Are there any special tools that are needed? Are there tools that would make it an easier process?

[Burke]

How can I fix this? Are there any special tools that are needed? Are there tools that would make it an easier process?
Figure out where the rotors jump, by spinning it in the caliper. Grab the rotor with an adjustable wrench and bend accordingly. It's relatively inexact, but gets decent results.

There is a specific rotor manipulating tool, and even a rotor trueness gauge. Both made by Park Tool. I have the rotor manipulator, but not the gauge.

Scott

[bike>>rider]

Park makes a rotor truing tool that works well, http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=14&item=DT-2

However, it is a lot harder to precisely isolate the warped area of a rotor than of a wheel, for example, because they are so much smaller and don't make as much noise when rubbing the pad as a wheel does in a truing stand. This is what I struggle with.

I'm sure many people have used needle-nose pliers as well.

[Kosk]

Additionally, sometimes bending the rotor at the base of the blades (spokes) produces good results too. Don't be afraid to try both bending here, and at the outer edge of the rotor. Worst case you get it wrong and it gets worse, and you have to grab another beer and keep at it. Eventually you'll get it straight. They are steel so they are not going to strain harden like alumnium would or anything. As long as you make small adjustments you can't really get into too much trouble.

[Magic]

Also, make sure you clean off the rotor when done. I use denatured rubbing alcohol or you can use Brake Cleaner.

[syntaxjunkie]

I've always fixed this problem by loosening my brakes. But that's probably not the wisest long-term solution. From my observation, shop guys seem to favor some variation on the manual manipulation technique. The tool solution sounds like a good one, too. Something else to buy for my bike!

[bigwheel]

I didn't know about the rotor tools.

For the neanderthal fix:

You can flip your bike upside down and spin the wheel to find the bent spot. Watch the rotor as it passes through the caliper. Once you find the high or low spot, give the spot a little bend or tug. It doesn't take much, and you can easily get them pretty straight. This is the kind of thing you can do while on a ride. Since I never fall, I never have to do this :eyeroll:

Also, I have found that rotors seem to bend at the places where the rotor connects to your hub. So, do the pushing/pulling at the connector/"spoke" points on the rotor.

Note: I don't know if this is normal practice, but it works well on my Avid mechanicals.

[GettingFaster]

For the neanderthal fix. . .

I second the neanderthal method. It has always worked for me.

[RichZilla]

For the neanderthal fix:...

Yup, I've done it many times with a Crescent wrench. Works great if you ease into it so as not to over-do-it.

[RedSquirrel]

Sometimes finding the warp location can be tricky. I found it best to know which rotor arm(s) warp is closest too. I've actually colored my disc w/marker then spun it to id area effected.

General area (two arms)....First I'll try by hand to bend whole area like bending a frisbee. It's a wrestle but increasing force, step by step ussually does it.

If one arm is bad, I'll tweak the closest arm with issue with a long pliers and napkin to protect disc. The natural arc bend method is best, don't kink it...the last thing you want is a kink in metal arm.

I tweaked the rotor once and it actually changed the opposite side, like a wheel. Careful. So small steps! Sometimes frustrating, I've thought of using a hammer. But that's me, I'm impatient.

[SpecHR55]

Mine also were not the straightest, they would "cling" once in a while.
I solved this jsut by first having my caliper reajusted, (wich lastest until the first drop) then when it did it again i would just lift the front wheel up and land kinda side ways to force it to not to rub/cling again. Just do that after a while and it solves itself! :D

[GRUMPY]

Get the Park Tool rotor truing tool. Best thing I've ever bought. It works really well too. Something I found that helps- have a light on the opposite side of the caliper when truing. You can look through the caliper between the pads, and really see where the rotor is bent. It makes a huge difference.

Also, as far as cleaning... don't use brake cleaner. It will only hurt things. Best solution (coming from many techs) and experience, is warm water and dishwashing soap. It cleans the grease, and leaves no residue if rinsed well.

Good luck!

[TrailSquirell]

my favorte way is to find wear the warp is, and unwarp it with a hammer, works good ya know

[Pete Hamer]

I heard that if you put them in the freezer over night they will staighten themselves out.:crazy:

[4Screws]

I heard that if you put them in the freezer over night they will staighten themselves out.:crazy:

SWEET! hey that works for my mags also!!
:jumpy:

[GRUMPY]

Giving inexperienced riders ideas like that only wastes their time. Stick with what isn't a rumor, and do it the right way.

[Ala Carte]

Giving inexperienced riders ideas like that only wastes their time. Stick with what isn't a rumor, and do it the right way.

I don't think he gets it Pete.

[Ala Carte]

. Something I found that helps- have a light on the opposite side of the caliper when truing. You can look through the caliper between the pads, and really see where the rotor is bent. It makes a huge difference.





Instead of a light, put a piece of white paper on the ground under the caliper, works pretty good.

[Pete Hamer]

Giving inexperienced riders ideas like that only wastes their time. Stick with what isn't a rumor, and do it the right way.

I guess you have to be a bit older to get the joke but that's why I put the crazy face at the end. :laugh: I appologize for any inconvenience.