HomeBrew Lights... finished!!

[JBergland]

I just finished up my HomeBrew lights this last weekend. The best way to describe them is ‘flipping WOW!!’ I’ve got more light than I’ll likely ever need and a hi/low ability. Thanks Bob… best $100 (actually, it was more like $80-ish come to think of it) I’ve spent in a long time!! I still need to work on make things look a little ‘prettier’, but these suckers work better than anything I could have bought off the shelf!!
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JB

[mn_ultra_guy]

Pics, parts list, instructions, etc.

[tedsti]

Everything you ever wanted to know and much, much more can be found here. Somewhere there should be a link to Bob's detailed write-ups.

http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=14364

[JBergland]

Everything you ever wanted to know and much, much more can be found here. Somewhere there should be a link to Bob's detailed write-ups.

http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=14364

I used Bob’s manual/instructions and it was all the info I needed. These lights are hands-down better than anything on the market. The best part is they are under $100!!
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JB

[Mario]

I've read Bobs article, thanks a zillion Bob. I'm a little unclear on how the two battery packs (NiMH) are put in a series and would like to see pictures of some finished homebrew systems as well to see which parts were used and how the switch is attached, etc.

I'm going to try this project and need to visualize it a little better. will my NiteRider become my backup light?, I sure hope so.

[bikeoutback]

Picture of the entire system:
http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/data/500/Entire_system.jpg
Picture of the front of the system:
http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/data/500/Final_front_shot.jpg
Driver's view
http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/data/500/Driver_s_view.jpg
Whole front with switch casing inside shown:
http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/data/500/Side_shot_front.jpg
Picture of the switch casing open:
http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/data/500/Side_shot_switch_house.jpg

Above system is thanks to Bob Shepherd (http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/) aka Bigwheel. The light housing is the optronics with the home depot bulb in it and mounted just as outlined in Bob's homebrew document. The main wiring (the green/yellow/brown/white) is trialer wiring I picked up at Ace hardware in AV for 78 cents a foot. I also picked up some tamiya connectors and criped those to the battery end of the wiring for two batteries as you can see in the first shot. Once I get my new batteries they will be housed in the seat bag and the wiring then runs up the frame to the front using velcro straps to keep it on the bike. This is where my major modification comes in, I went to the center off DPDT switch for high low beam system. I had some black ABS plastic lying around that I cut into a two inch piece, you can see it in the last picture below the switch housing. It has a hole drilled on it that the bolt that clamps the light to the handle bar goes through. The housing is just a plastic box bought at Radio shack that I had. The bottom of this is removed by 4 screws. The housing is then screwed to the ABS plastic on it's side so the bottom can be unscrewed while on the bike if necessary. Through the bottom drilled a hole for wires to run into (later I may add a grommet or silicon here but it's pretty tight with 4 wires running into it). The top I then drilled another hole for the switch. Once the "bottom" or access panel is on the housing I added a black zip tie around the switch housing and bolt that clamps the light fixture on for support, but I'm 95% positive the abs wouldn't break on me and the switch is supported well enough, I just preferred no flex when using the switch. Up is high and down is low, center is off, works great. Hardest part was I hooked up the switch but it is a tight fit to get it into the housing, I did get it but I did have one connector come off first time I did it, not sure of an easier way to get it in and hooked up but mine's together and working so I'm not gonna worry about it. Outside of the switch and wiring the light has bullet connectors connecting it so I can swap out the actuall light. The entire system has fewer connections than my last one, only thing I have yet to modify when I find a better way is I have one connection that essentially requires three wires to come together that I have a crimp cap on and taped but am thinking there may be a better way. This has gotten long but you wanted pictures and there they are, see my gallery for larger size pics. I would like to note that 90% of this set up is from others, mainly Bob even the idea to use 4 wire trailer wire. Only real part I can claim is the switch housing and how I attached it to the light itself, basically as one unit now. I'm debating, I may give the switch housing it's own bracket to the handle bar on the opposite side than the light but who knows, extra weight. ;) Next onto helmet light, now to see Bigwheel at a night ride so I can steal some more of his tricks/secrets ;) Thanks again Bob.

[bigwheel]

Hey guys, It's great to see more homebrew setups.

Good Job! :banana:

Now, I need to get my head out of vacation mode, and go looking for my lighting stuff.

[Mario]

Bike Outback, thanks for the pic, big help. quick question, you split the lines and put two battery connectors on. So you simply charge the batteries separately and it draws the right amount from each one. I was reading Bobs article and I thought the batteries needed to be hardwired together? did you get the NimH battries mentioned in the article?

looks great, I'm looking forward to working on this project.

[bikeoutback]

Bike Outback, thanks for the pic, big help. quick question, you split the lines and put two battery connectors on. So you simply charge the batteries separately and it draws the right amount from each one. I was reading Bobs article and I thought the batteries needed to be hardwired together? did you get the NimH battries mentioned in the article?

looks great, I'm looking forward to working on this project.

Since I went with the high/low switch the batteries are essentially wired together in the switch. I used the diagram below to wire it, the switch then controls when the batteries are running parrallell and when they run in series to create the high and low beams. I haven't gotten batteries yet, still using old RC NiCad batteries I have.

http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/data/500/Switch.jpg

Another tip: when I wired this, the two connections to the middle of the switch (- from top battery, + from bottom) first time I accidentally wired backwards. I did get light in one position (not sure which and it was light out so couldn't tell if it was high or low beam) but in the other on position on the switch I got no light and things heated up in a hurry including the switch itself and wiring. I'm sure I created a short circuit of some sorts and was paying enough atttention that I didn't burn anything but just for anybody else doing this, this may happen, switched the connections and all works well.

I'm also not running a fuse anywhere in the set up, not sure of a good place to put one or whether I even need one, I figure worse case is something will just melt/fry, I'm not very worried about it though.

[Mario]

make sense BO, if there was a workshop or a how-to clinic for homebrew lights, hint hint Bob, I'd be more than willing to bring a keg of homebrew, hows an Oktobersfest sound?