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Paul Swenson
08-04-2006, 11:16 AM
I just ran across this on Cyclingnews. SRAM has new recommendations on determining chainlength on FS bikes. Apparently there was a number of JRA rear derailleur explosions.

SRAM urges rethinking of proper chain sizing

By James Huang
Sizing a chain used to be a rather straightforward affair, with any one of the several accepted techniques yielding chain lengths that are typically within a link of each other. In general, if the chain could accommodate the large chainring-large cog combination without sagging in the other extreme, you were good to go.
The prevalence of full-suspension mountain bikes, however, has complicated the matter as the effective chainstay length can change dramatically as the suspension moves through its travel. Usually, this length increases during compression, and the change can be particularly pronounced on certain suspension designs and/or longer travel rigs. Therefore, if chains are sized using the old standard methods and the suspension is compressed when in the big-big combo, the results can be rather "unpleasant", and often costly.
In response to what has clearly been a marked increase in "JRA rear derailleur explosion" (industry jargon for 'Just Riding Along' ) complaints, SRAM has released the following "Chain Sizing Made Easy" guidelines, which are applicable regardless of chain make or model:
1. Wrap a full-length chain around the largest chain ring and largest cog combination, bypassing the derailleurs.
2. If applicable, chain sizing should be performed when the rear suspension produces the maximum effective chainstay length. This usually, but not always, occurs at full compression. Deflating the rear shock, removing the coil spring, or unbolting one end of the shock may make it easier to determine this point.
3. Add one inch of chain to the minimum length required to accommodate this gear combination.
4. Remove excess links as necessary.
5. Route the sized chain through the drive system and connect as directed by chain manufacturer.
Keep in mind that this method may result in insufficient chain tension in some cogs while in the inner chainring, but you probably already know better than to run in those cross-gear combinations anyway. Besides, the elimination of a few mostly-unusable gears is a much more appealing alternative to having your entire rear end shatter in spectacular fashion.
For more information see www.sram.com (http://www.sram.com)

http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=tech/2006/news/08-04

bigwheel
08-04-2006, 11:59 AM
Thanks, Paul.

Now, I'm trying to remember how I sized mine. Since I replaced the big chainring with a bash plate, my big-big gear is not a major cross-chain event, and I use it quite often.

I think I'll deflate the rear shock and take a look to make sure there is enough slop for running fully compressed.

The new instructions are not very different from the old ones. From what I remember, measure the size needed for the big-big gear, and add a pair of links. I think (hope) I added a second pair, because my big front is actually a middle.

Kosk
08-04-2006, 01:05 PM
3. Add one inch of chain to the minimum length required to accommodate this gear combination.

An inch of chain is equal to exactly one full link (inside and outside plate).... How is this new or different from past chain measurement instructions?

FSSS
08-04-2006, 01:09 PM
How is this new or different from past chain measurement instructions?

I think it has to do with the "compressing the suspension" steps.

Kosk
08-04-2006, 01:32 PM
I think it has to do with the "compressing the suspension" steps.

Hmm, I guess I always figured that was a given with a FS bike.

soupboy
08-04-2006, 02:12 PM
Funny, I've never had any issues with this but I have seen pics of exploded mechs on MTBR. I think it often comes from weight weenies trying to achieve nirvana.

Wolfchimp
08-04-2006, 02:22 PM
3. Add one inch of chain to the minimum length required to accommodate this gear combination.

An inch of chain is equal to exactly one full link (inside and outside plate).... How is this new or different from past chain measurement instructions?
I'm with you Pete. I have been measuring chains like that for a long time. I dont see why this is anything new, but thanks for posting it up Paul! It will be very helpful for those who have never used this method.