Avid brake pads

[Heuy]

i think I need new brake pads for my Avid Juicy 5s. seems they aren't as powerful as they used to be, they just get hot. Is there something that works better than the Avid brand or should I stick with the Avids? Anyone with firsthand experience?

[Ala Carte]

i think I need new brake pads for my Avid Juicy 5s. seems they aren't as powerful as they used to be, they just get hot. Is there something that works better than the Avid brand or should I stick with the Avids? Anyone with firsthand experience?

How old are your pads? Disc pads usually last a LOT longer than rim style pads. Unless you're riding areas with extended downhill runs, or always in mud, or pushing a 40 pounder around, you should get a couple years out of your pads. There are different compounds you could try, metallic, semi-metallic, organic, but I would stick with something from Avid. Might be a setup issue or contamination issue.

[Danimal]

Wolfchimp (Porter Million) advised me to boil my pads (he's a mecahnic ya know) and I actually did it last Friday and man it helped. I guess boiling them takes out all of the oils and microscopic grime. I own Avid BB7s.

Anyway, I stop with remarkable plushiness. Check your pads and make sure they aren't worn too much.

Cudos Porter on some great advice.

[coflo]

I too have a set of Avid Juicy 5's and while I like the set up and levers, the stopping power is less than impressive. The 5's use different pads than the BB7's and Juicy 7's but it's the same compound. I've used EBC pads before on different systems (Hope & XT DH) and they work very well and they have 3 compound styles to choose from. Worth a try I'd say.

[soupboy]

If they're glazed/soiled by something greasy you can also take a propane torch to them to sizzle off the bad stuff. Don't just roast them though - think "Paint da Fence"-Miyagi style.

My preferred method, assuming you have sufficient pad material to begin with is to toss some mud right on the calipers and rotors and do a couple protracted DH stops. The sand in the mud acts as an abrasive to scour both the rotor and pads clean. Seriously. I was skeptical at first but after fouling my first set of disc brakes several years ago the folks at Speedgoat recommended I do this. Works like a charm.

The new bestest pads I've found are the Galfer's (they make the best replacement rotors too). Better than any of the EBCs I've used in the past. Avid has had very suspect QC on their OE pad sets. That said, mine are still going strong after 9 months.

[Crash]

The new bestest pads I've found are the Galfer's (they make the best replacement rotors too).

He speaks the truth.

[Mountain Jam]

I've got the same brakes, I think I just replaced them with some quik stop pads, they seem to do the trick.

[Heuy]

Alright, replaced the pads but I can't get the *#!@? pistons to reset. The brakes rub all of the time ever so slightly now. I've got a bleed kit so I think I'll bleed them again always seems to cure what ails you. The internet says to put a screwdriver in and push them back but that only works until the first time I pull the brakes. I'll play with it more tonight.

Any tips?

P.S. old pads were pretty gone, seems grippy now.

[berrywise]

Alright, replaced the pads but I can't get the *#!@? pistons to reset. The brakes rub all of the time ever so slightly now. I've got a bleed kit so I think I'll bleed them again always seems to cure what ails you. The internet says to put a screwdriver in and push them back but that only works until the first time I pull the brakes. I'll play with it more tonight.

Any tips?

P.S. old pads were pretty gone, seems grippy now.

Give the brakes to me and I'll give you some v-brakes. Problem solved.

[Heuy]

Give the brakes to me and I'll give you some v-brakes. Problem solved.

Gimmie a set of high-end mechanical disks, levers and re-cable my bike and you've got yourself a deal.

[soupboy]

Gimmie a set of high-end mechanical disks, levers and re-cable my bike and you've got yourself a deal.
Pull the pads out, grab the longest hex wrench that you can slide into the caliper (usually 5mm or 6mm). Once inserted, rest the wrench flat/flush with one piston and, grabbing each end of the wrench, pull it to the outboard side until flush with caliper body. Repeat on other side. Reinsert pads. Get after it.

[Heuy]

Pull the pads out, grab the longest hex wrench that you can slide into the caliper (usually 5mm or 6mm). Once inserted, rest the wrench flat/flush with one piston and, grabbing each end of the wrench, pull it to the outboard side until flush with caliper body. Repeat on other side. Reinsert pads. Get after it.

I'll give it a whirl,

You da man

[Heuy]

I used soupboy's piston reset advice and the mud advice. I probably only neeeded to do the mud-deglaze thing but I'm ready to rock now.

Yeeee-Haw