Installing Hydro Brakes...

[Danimal]

I am wondering how big of a PITA it is to install Hydraulic Brakes. Especially if you have no idea what you are doing. I am thinking of swapping out my Avid BB7's for some Hydros. What do I need to be concerned with and what measurements do I need to know about?

Help from some wrenchies is appreciated.

[Tetreves]

I'm no wrench, but I've asked this question quite a bit. From the sounds of it, you "can" install Juicy's on your own. But for optimal performance, it's best to have a professional do it, and have them face the mounting tabs so everything lines up right. Once the brake itself is mounted, the rest of it seems to be fairly user servicable.

[Rocky Mountain]

Shortening the brake cable is the most difficult which is supposed to be done with a bleed kit. There are tricks you can do so you dont need one but probably not advised for first timers. Juicy 7's are about $125 which is a decent price.

Hyd. brakes are awesome, especially in wet weather riding but I am still getting used to doing the initial set-up.

[soupboy]

Hydro installs are easy. The primary complication comes from cutting lines and needing to bleed. If you're uncomfortable mechanically or don't have the time/patience any shop can do this no problem.

If you don't need to cut lines (usually only a "must do" on smaller frames) install and set up is a snap. Quick order of difficulty based on my practical experience - 1 being the easiest to install.


Avids - Juicys or Mech, the CPS is fantastic. All but eliminates the most severe alignment issues. Bomber.
Hayes or Magura - more sensitive to IS tabs being square. Both high quality brands.
Hope - my favorite brakes, but the most sensitive to having the IS tabs faced by a pro (a worthwhile investment for any frame and fork IMO).Happy to help anyone with installs. The only measurements you need to concern yourself with are making sure you're ordering the right calipers/adapters for your frame/fork and desired rotor size. This is simple with Avids, Hayes, Maggies and newer Hopes. Older Hopes require rebuilding the calipers to accomodate different rotor sizes.

[Ala Carte]

I am thinking of swapping out my Avid BB7's for some Hydros.

Help from some wrenchies is appreciated.

Is there something wrong with the BB7's? If not why are you going to replace them? Unless you are riding a 40+ lb beast, or are going to someplace with real long descents, you won't notice a big difference. I've been using the cable actuated brakes since they came out, and they work awesome. Super easy to setup, way more adjustable, way better modulation, easy to fix. Just keep the cable fresh and your good to go. But, if you do go hydraulic, most systems come prebled at different lengths. Just get a rough measurement on your current setup and you should be good. If its a little long, the housing should be cut and bled. Take it to a shop, pay to have it done correctly. Support your LBS!!!

[crux]

Would agree with soupboy here on the brakes. I also like the Hopes and install almost requires a facing tool such as the "Spot" tool from Hope. It is a worth while investment in time and $ to spend some time with a facing tool until both mounts are:
a. clean and clear of any paint, or angled surface where the brake attaches.
b. both surfaces at the same level or distance from facing tool. (ensures that the brake will be lined up.)

Would also recommend facing tabs for the Magura as well, but not as critical.

If you don't need to cut lines (usually only a "must do" on smaller frames) install and set up is a snap. Quick order of difficulty based on my practical experience - 1 being the easiest to install.

Avids - Juicys or Mech, the CPS is fantastic. All but eliminates the most severe alignment issues. Bomber.
Hayes or Magura - more sensitive to IS tabs being square. Both high quality brands.
Hope - my favorite brakes, but the most sensitive to having the IS tabs faced by a pro (a worthwhile investment for any frame and fork IMO).

[RichZilla]

Is there something wrong with the BB7's? If not why are you going to replace them? Unless you are riding a 40+ lb beast, or are going to someplace with real long descents, you won't notice a big difference. I've been using the cable actuated brakes since they came out, and they work awesome. Super easy to setup, way more adjustable, way better modulation,...etc.

I had the BB7's for 3 years and had very good luck with them. You need to keep pretty fresh cables on there to get decent feel/feedback through the levers. Then I came across a super good deal on some Juicy 7's and upgraded to them. I did the install in about an hour. Everything went extemely smooth. They worked awesome. The main reason I did the swap was because a new bike I bought, came with Hayes El Camino hydraulics. I liked the feel of the Hayes and the Juicy's WAY better than the cables! I feel that there is no question that hydralic brakes have more power, better feel and better modulation. DO THE UPGRADE! I would have to disagree with Ala Carte on some of the points there. Now, everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and this is just mine. If someone else likes cables better, fine by me. I'm not ripping on cables either, I loved those things for 3 years.

I would recommend installing them yourself, if you've got average mechanical skills. BUT, if the cables need shortening, save yourself the headache and have a good shop do that part for you.

I really like the adjustability of the Juicy's and would suggest checking those out, especially since you've been using the BB7's.

[nigel]

Cantilevers----old skool goodness, stop great when properly adjusted

Linear Pull----much better than cantilevers, much more stopping power and adjustability. Once you use em its hard to go back to cantilevers.

Cable Discs----meh, its a cable! IMHO not much different than a linear pull. Can easily go back to linear pull and not feel bad about yourself.

Hydro Discs----much more stopping power and smoother feel than cable discs. Once you use em (yes brand makes a diff, as does rotor size) every brake cept hydros will feel inferior!

I have used all of the above and ridden many a mile on each. Hydros are the way to go for me. They feel much better, are sooo much easier to deal with, once they are set, pretty much leave em alone, no cable stretch or changing. As far as setting em up and bleeding, if you know how to do it they take the same amount of time as any other brake!


D

Oh yeah, and installation is easy. If you get prebled its a snap. If you get unbled just follow the instructions they usually do a good job, or gimmie a shout ill walk ya thru it.

[Danimal]

Main reason I am considering this is because the cable guides on the Cannondale frame has adapters so the narrower cable actuated cables will fit in the guides on the frame. I have lost 2 of these so far and keep having to replace them. Getting hydros would eliminate the adapters (thicker cables running on the guides).

I also want hydro's because they're quite trendy right now:)

[nigel]

I also want hydro's because they're quite trendy right now:)
.....and avid mechs are not [still]? hehehe :crazy:

[Danimal]

Yeah the Avid Mechs work fine but they just aren't Gucci enough for me.

[jag]

Ok, I have a question for you Nigel.

I replaced the pads on my hayes hydros the other day and couldn't get the calipers pushed all the way in. I would push one side in and the other would pop out. I then squeezed the levers to get calipers out and cleaned the edges and applied a little grease and still had the same issue trying to push them all the way in. So I started bleeding them little by little until I got the wheel on, then some more until I had the rotor rubbing lightly. Just hoping I did the right thing. Everything feels normal except the little rubbing that is left. And I aligned the brake on the mount before I did all this.
Will I need to add more fluid as they wear out? I suppose I will if I have to squeeze the levers in too far.

[nigel]

Ok, I have a question for you Nigel.

I replaced the pads on my hayes hydros the other day and couldn't get the calipers pushed all the way in. I would push one side in and the other would pop out. I then squeezed the levers to get calipers out and cleaned the edges and applied a little grease and still had the same issue trying to push them all the way in. So I started bleeding them little by little until I got the wheel on, then some more until I had the rotor rubbing lightly. Just hoping I did the right thing. Everything feels normal except the little rubbing that is left. And I aligned the brake on the mount before I did all this.
Will I need to add more fluid as they wear out? I suppose I will if I have to squeeze the levers in too far.

With hyrdos the best thig to do when replacing pads is to drain and re-bleed the system. Pds dont wear out that fast so its not a big deal to do. They are self adjusting so as the pads wear down the levers pull in farther. Some levers have adjusting screws on the plunger to compensate for this. Long way around it would be to drain and rebleed. Short way would be to try shimming.

D