is my chain too loose??

[Tegra54]

so...i have been running a 1x9 for a while and have been dropping my chain quite frequently.

is my chain too loose?

any suggestions to solving this problem?

http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/data/500/IMG_2578.JPG

[funky-funky-chicken]

You may just want to throw a front derailleur on as a chain guide. You can position the cage so that you don't get any rubbing. I've tried the whole 1x7, 1x8, and 1x9 thing and without something as a chain guide, it has been my experience that the chain is going to be thrown off once in a while.

[Danimal]

Ahhhm, looks like your missing some teeth in the big ring up front. Look just below the lizard skin off to the right. That would do it. I would suggest running a bash guard (looks like you need one) and chain guide.

[tedsti]

Running a non-ramped ring would also help keep the chain on.

[danger!]

All good suggestions so far. I'm running 1x9 with a bash guard, non-ramped ring, and an N-Gear Jump stop, and I've had no derailment issues(so far).

[FSSS]

Remove the other chainrings, get some BMX chainring bolts (any good shop should have 'em), and mount a NEW big ring where the middle one is now.

[tedsti]

Just to clarify, why are you running the big ring? Is this a commuter?

[Kosk]

Running a non-ramped ring and bash gaurd will help, but not eliminate the problem. The chain will still drop to the inside occasionally.

A jump-stop or other device will be needed to stop the chain from dropping to the inside. The FD you took off is your cheapest option, just slap it back on without a cable, and set the limit screws so it lines up nicely.

The reason your chain drops is mainly due to a non-straight chain line, not so much too-much chain. There is only one or two cogs that line up with your third ring, (most likely the smaller ones) and I'm guessing you run up toward the middle of the cassette or higher most of the time, so by default your chain is pullin in towards the center line of the bike, causing the chain to drop on bigger hits or sustained rattling.

[manual63]

Best bet would be to take off all the current rings and get a Surly Single speed cog, probably a 34 or something, which does not have ramped teeth for shifting the the teeth grooves are much deeper so your chain will stay on better. You also might want to do what was already suggested, run a front derailleur that is locked into one place so it keeps that chain in line. This way when you go over bumps and your chain bounces, which it will with a rear derailleur, the front derailleur will automatically put the chain back in place.

What you have set up right now has serious issues. Your large ring is very damaged and you need a new one. I don't think you need to run on such a big ring, especially for off-road. A 34 tooth will give you a good range with the 9 in the rear. While you are at doing all this, get a SRAM 9 speed chain, they seem to be the best chains for the buck these days.

If these tips are too above your head, take the bike to Hollywood Cycles (http://www.hwoodcycles.com) or One on One (http://www.oneononebike.com) and tell them what you want to do, they will set you up.

Good luck!

[Tegra54]

wow...thanks for all the good responses.

1) Yes, the big ring is extremely worn, complete with a missing tooth
2) When I was running on my middle ring with a bash guard i was spinning out much too frequently, and not even leaving the top gear much. that is why I am using the big ring.....otherwise i would just make it a single speed :)


I think i will try to mount a NEW un-ramped ring in the middle....it this does not remedy my problems I will put the FD back on

Thanks for the prompt responses

EDIT: Also I am running an new el-cheapo (~60 miles now) LX chain. I have had issues with the SRAM failing at the powerlink's in the past (I busted two of them in two straight seasons on two different chains) so decided to try the shimano for this go. please dont tell me this is because I didnt take care of the chains....because I did

[tedsti]

If you are going to get a new middle ring, get a 36T salsa. This will get you a little more speed. You will have fewer problems if you run the middle ring.

[manual63]

You will have fewer problems if you run the middle ring.

And the reason for this is because your middle ring will line up with the middle of your rear cassette. This way when you are on the biggers cogs (easier gear) in the rear, you won't have as much cross chaining going on.

[Sevadari]

If you are going to get a new middle ring, get a 36T salsa. This will get you a little more speed. You will have fewer problems if you run the middle ring.

And the reason for this is because your middle ring will line up with the middle of your rear cassette. This way when you are on the biggers cogs (easier gear) in the rear, you won't have as much cross chaining going on.

I think I know the answer to this, but being new to SSing I just want to be sure...

So this wouldn't be a problem (running on the big ring instead of the middle) if you're running a true SS-i.e., only one cog in the back? I'm assuming it's b/c you're taking care of this issue if you get your chainline lined up properly and from that point onward there's no variability in where you chain is positioned?

On a related note, which is how I ended up finding this thread through a search just now...how much does chain selection make a difference in the quality of SSing? I'm currently building up a super el-cheapo SS rig and am trying to edumacate myself in the process.

My main questions are these...can I use any old MTB chain, or are there preferences or guidelines in terms of chain type, size, etc. (however else chains differ)?

While I'm sure it's preferable, how much difference does it make to start with a totally new chain versus on old (but fairly well maintained) one? We're not talking about a ton of money here, but I just want to get a better feel for the SSing terrain.

Thanks in advance for any info you can share.

[stoneage]

Chains, rings and cogs wear out together, so it's always better to replace everything at the same time. That being said, SS don't fall into this category strictly, because with proper tension you aren't going to get chain slip or skipping over the teeth of the ring. Even cross chaining isn't that big a deal, unless it is extreme. I have had the same 34 ring on 'Big Pink' for 7 ½ years, the BMX cog is 3 years old and the chain was new last year. The only time I have a problem is when the rear axle slips forward (my fault) and the chain comes off.