Road Bike Questions

[Panman]

Ok, I've never had a road bike but since I'm doing the MS150 (http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12365) and Ironman (http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12635) I thought I should get one. I have a few questions:

1. Should I get strait handle bars or those curved ones? (Since I'm coming from MTBing.)

2. What is a good starter bike/brand? I'm looking for one around $500.

3. Has anyone seen a good deal or selling a good used one? (I'm 5'4")

Thanks!

[noise_is_life]

Ok, I've never had a road bike but since I'm doing the MS150 (http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12365) and Ironman (http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12635) I thought I should get one. I have a few questions:

1. Should I get strait handle bars or those curved ones? (Since I'm coming from MTBing.)

2. What is a good starter bike/brand? I'm looking for one around $500.

3. Has anyone seen a good deal or selling a good used one? (I'm 5'4")

Thanks!

Get curved bars, I don't spend all that much time in the drops (you can also ride with your hands on the top of the bar, or on the brake hoods), but it's nice to have them when you need them.

All of the major brands have entry level bikes, might be tough to get too much for $500 new, the entry point tends to be a bit above that ($600-700). It's all about the components at that level, spending a little more will get you parts that work. Oh yeah, just my personal opinion, but go with steel.

Not sure about used, there's always ebay.

[JayT]

Ryan,
Seeing you are a fellow north-ender I'd recommend you stop at Trailhead Cycling in Champlin (Hwy 169 & 114th Ave). They're on the east side of 169 right behind the BP station. They have a road bike that is at the $500 mark (just under, I think). They also have some cool hybrids starting in that price range. They cary Diamondback, Marin, & Bianchi. Stop in and tell them I sent you.

JayT

[Panman]

Ok, I did a little shopping today and here is what I found/understand.

Dropped handle bars are a givin/must. Entry level bikes are more around $600 like Pat pointed out. At this point I'm looking at the Trek 1000 (http://www2.trekbikes.com/Bikes/Road/Performance_Road/Alpha_Aluminum/1000/index.php) or Specialized Allez (http://www.specialized.com/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=9358&JServSessionIdroot=j93zko4kle.j27007). Any thoughts on those? I didn't realy find any last year model or used bikes.

Pat, what are the advantages of steal and what bike has it?

Jay, I did stop at Trailhead and seen some Bianchi and Dimond Back bikes. That GT harley bike is cool!! Ramsey Bikes is my "hometown" shop though.

Although, I didn't get a lot of time to discuss any details at the shops. It was just a in-out situation. Quick look and to the next place I went. Maybe next weekend I'll decide. Keep the comments comin! Thanks

[PWAXON]

Spend the extra cash and get the Raleigh Super Course from the new Erik’s in Coon Rapids. It’s Aluminum but has a carbon fork, carbon stays and decent components.

You want a bike with at least 105 components. Anything lower will wareout quickly.

Just my 2 cents (Trailhead is a great place to look also)

[SprocketHead]

I have a stupid question. Why are the drop handlebars a "must"?... I'm assuming it's because of the Aero Advantage.

I have a Specialized Sirrus, it's the closest I get to a road bike.. It has flat handlebars like an MTB, skinny tires, it's light and fast.

I chose it over an entry level road bike because I CANT STAND the Drop Handlebars... They extreemly uncomfortable and I feel very awkward on them. The brakes are in a goofy spot and I feel like I have my nose on the front tire.

I have a set of Aero Bars that I can attatch to the handlebars, I feel awkward with those too, but I'm only on them when I need to be. They are only installed for the long rides like the ironman.

[BrightYellow]

Yeah, I'm not sure that drop bars are a must... whatever is comfortable for you. I have track bars on my road bike that I love, they give me some better options and I always rode with my hands on the hoods anyway. I never did use the drops - maybe I'm just not that fast...

A friend of mine had an older Allez and at the time, it was the best deal around. I'm not sure how they are now though - this was a few years ago.

You could also check out the classifieds at www.roadbikereview.com (http://www.roadbikereview.com) - I've had good luck there...

[PWAXON]

I have a stupid question. Why are the drop handlebars a "must"?... I'm assuming it's because of the Aero Advantage.



Drop handlebars give you many options for hand positions so you don’t get too fatigued in one. When you are riding long distances especially in a head wind riding in the drops make it that much easer to pedal. I didn’t use them much the first year I had road bike but I use the all the time now.

[GearDaddy]

Ok, I've never had a road bike but since I'm doing the MS150 (http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12365) and Ironman (http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12635) I thought I should get one. I have a few questions:

Great! Welcome to a whole new world of riding opportunities!

1. Should I get strait handle bars or those curved ones? (Since I'm coming from MTBing.)

Definitely get drops. When riding long distances, having the different hand positions makes a big difference. Also, it's much better for getting in an aero position and staying there comfortably for long stretches of road. Comes in real handy when bucking that 20mph headwind. :kiss:

2. What is a good starter bike/brand? I'm looking for one around $500.

So much to choose from. I wouldn't focus too much on the "best deal". Rather, make sure to test ride a whole bunch and figure out what seems to fit best. There's going to be a big difference between the feel of a Lemond vs. a Bianchi for instance. Most of all you'll want a bike that is going to feel solid and be comfortable to ride for hours on end. Some bikes may look all tricked out or be super light, but when you ride them the rattle and buzz and feel like you're riding on a 2-by-4. Look for the bike where it feels well balanced and nimble, and feels stable at higher speeds.

As far as components, it depends. Derailleurs, brakes, seats, and handlebars are relatively cheap to replace. However, shifters and cranksets can be very pricey to replace. So, I'd focus on whether the bike's shifters are to your liking (whether you like STI or Ergo for instance), because if they are not, you'll be frustrated and looking at spend $$$ to fix the problem.

3. Has anyone seen a good deal or selling a good used one? (I'm 5'4")

www.roadbikereview.com (http://www.roadbikereview.com) is a great resource for window shopping, but most of it will probably be too expensive for what you're looking for. ebay.com certainly has some deals, but I think you need to have very specific ideas on what you're looking for there. So, I'd recommend going to an LBS instead.

Thanks![/QUOTE]

[noise_is_life]

Pat, what are the advantages of steal and what bike has it?


Well if you steal a bike it is a lot cheaper, oh you mean steel.:)

Although it is not universally true, steel bikes tend to be more comfortable over distances and there is just something classic about a steel bike.

It really does depend on your riding style though, if you are just riding casual tours and doing road training then a steel bike with a relaxed geometry is the thing, if you want to race short fast crits then a stiff compact aluminum bike would be the better choice.

I second the comment about 105 as a minimum, but it is pretty hard to do that at the price point you are looking for. I had to go up to $1300 on a Lemond to get full 105.

As far as who sells steel, you have to look around, I got a Lemond Alpe d' Huez, but when I looked last that model was AL. The Tourmalet(sp) which is their entry level bike might still be steel. One option would be a Surly Long Haul Trucker which is more of a touring bike, but might fit what you are looking for (I'm not really sure what they go for, so I'm not sure how easy it would to be to build up a cheap one). Specialized also sells a steel bike, that's what soupboy got. I think Jamis does too, but I'm not positive.

Another option that you could look at is a low end cyclocross bike. You can run road tires on it road riding and put cross tires on it for a new offroad experience.

[noise_is_life]

Looks like the drop handlebar issue was covered pretty well already, but I concur, it gives you more hand positions which are much more important on a road bike.

If you want to go funky you could always get a mustache bar which are popular with the fixie set.

[Weeder]

Jamis makes the Satellite, which is a steel frame with 105's on them. I test rode it at Now Sports last fall an was very suprised by the comfort on the bumpy sidewalks near Summit and Snelling in St. Paul. Good value for around $650. I however found myself spend a little more than that though after a few months of research I suprisingly bought an Orbea Mitis. Great compact geometry and full Ultegra for $2000. It likes to get up and fly with minimal effort. Carbon fork, and rear stays, plus hand built Spanish Aluminum frame. 57 frame weights about 17-18 pounds nice and light.

As for drops if you are nervous and don't like them I recommend you try Ritchey Bio drops the down portion is actually flared back and out to fit the natural way your hands position when you get into them, unlike to the old round style where you have to sometimes uncomfortably shift your wrists into them.

Bianchi makes some great bikes, but they tend to be a bit more on the pricey end, lost of history to their company. Unfortunately they have most of their frames made in Tiawan now like everyone else. Dissapointment.

Chris

[soupboy]

Spanish Aluminum taste like paella?

Check the Roadbikereview classifieds. You can get a decent bike <$1K. For $500 it will likely have to be used.

Also, be sure to check local dealers for specials on NOS (new old stock) bikes. I got a sweet deal on a Speshy Allez Cromo (full Columbus Foco tubeset - steel) with full Ultegra for under $1300 just because it was a model year old with essentially zero changes made for the new model year.

I agree with Pat in that you might do well with a complete Surly Cross Check (value priced CX bike) and just get some skinnies for your long distance road rides.

Whatever you do - please don't shave your legs...

Sean

plus hand built Spanish Aluminum frame.

[redwood]

Motobecane makes a full ultegra steel bike at $1095. On of my friends rides a full ultegra motobecane and loves it.

http://bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/legacypro.htm

[tedsti]

I just went through the process of looking for a inexpensive road bike. I knew I wanted steel, so I was looking at Lemond, Bianchi, Schwinn. I kept an eye on ebay and www.mcf.net (http://www.mcf.net) classifieds. www.craigslist.org (http://www.craigslist.org) is another good site for used bikes. I ended up buying a used 2002 Bianchi Veloce for a really good price from a guy on mcf.

Don't get too caught up in the weight weenie syndrome. If you are just doing "rides" and not races, there is no sense paying $1000 more to save a pound. This is the reason to stay with steel. It is cheaper and it rides better than Al.

Road bikes don't take the abuse the mtb bikes do. A 4 year old road bike is still a really good bike. Plus the roadies tend to be more concerned about having the latest, greatest stuff which means that the used stuff is cheaper.

[SickBoy]

A Surly Pacer is a good steel road bike to start with, though it isn't light. Not even as light as most good "steel" bikes. Any shop that has a QBP account should be able to get a complete bike for you with any build kit you want. (heck, you could get it built with full Campy record if'n you wanted).

Any way you go I would recommend a fork with a full carbon steerer as this will dampen a lot of road vibration that comes up through to your hands, or else maybe think about carbon road bars. They might look out of place on a lower end bike but will add a great deal of comfort.

Giant TCR's and OCR's, while foreign made, tend to be a pretty good value for the dollar. I had a 2002 TCR 1 and currently ride a 2004 TCR Composite 1 (full carbon frame and almost all carbon parts). Lower end Orbea's are also suprisingly nice for the money.

[Panman]

Wow, thanks for all the input. Now I have to read it all. LOL Looks like I'll be testing a bunch of road bikes this weekend.

[igor]

I picked up an 04 Specialized Allez Elite that's got full 105 and is a steel frame with carbon fork last year. I paid $1100. It's heavier but I just go out and ride so it works just fine for me.

[Panman]

Sounds like you really have to go more around $1,000 to get something decent. Unfortunately I don't have that available, saving for a house (and bills :hit: ). So, around $600 is my limit. So far I like the Trek 1000 but that's just because I seen it already. These other bikes you speak of I have no idea where to look at up here. Ideas? And in your opinion, what is the best bike/deal for $600?? Thanks!

[redwood]

At $600 all is not lost. My fiancee's road bike is a frame from the late 80s with shimano Sora components (Sora's what you'd get for $600 on a new bike on sale). Everytime I get on her bike I'm amazed by how well it shifts, brakes, and how tight it feels. It feels fast to me.

[jeffgude]

I'm not sure what shops are close to you up there. Looking at Penn and Eriks you have some good options. Besides the Trek 1000, the Specialized Allez, Giant OCR3, Raleigh Grandsport are sold thru these shops and each are pretty decent bikes in the $550 - $600 range. If you are looking at something with flat bars then Specialized Sirrus is even less,and an excellent value. You can also find some good flar bar road bikes made by Marin. At this price range look at something that fits you well with a decent frame, you can always upgrade wheels, etc later. A carbon fork is nice too, and a couple of the bikes mentioned above even include one. I've found that road components last forever as they are not exposed to the sand, mud, etc as MTB stuff is.

[Weeder]

The only problem with Motobecanes is that they have no US retailers right now, with the financial problem they had a few years back they pulled out of stores, I hear they are on the way back. I rode one and liked it, but was afraid to invest in one with no possible way of test riding one.

[redwood]

The only problem with Motobecanes is that they have no US retailers right now, with the financial problem they had a few years back they pulled out of stores, I hear they are on the way back. I rode one and liked it, but was afraid to invest in one with no possible way of test riding one.

The motobecane phenomenon is pretty interesting. Every time one of their bikes gets reviewed by a magazine or whatever, the response is basicly that they really like the bike but don't understand how they can sell them so cheap. And yet, it's tough to pull the trigger on one. I've been close a few times. I almost went for that superlight hard tail (mtb mag race bike of the year 2003), whatever it's called. And recently I've been lusting after their new cross bike: http://bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_cross.htm
which I've seen for $650, with lifetime warranty.
I guess I'm like you. If I just saw more of them around I wouldn't hesitate.

[SprocketHead]

Drop handlebars give you many options for hand positions so you don’t get too fatigued in one. When you are riding long distances especially in a head wind riding in the drops make it that much easer to pedal. I didn’t use them much the first year I had road bike but I use the all the time now.


OK, I finally gave in and got a road bike, it only took a couple rides to figure out that the drop (curly) handlebars work very well.

I guess the problem I had the last time I tried them was either Fit or my riding style.