Stripping Paint from a Frame

[noise_is_life]

Related to the other post about my fixie project, does anyone have tips about stripping paint from a frame?

[berrywise]

I recommend using Zip Strip. It's a chemical stripper that has worked extremely well for me in the past. Last time I picked up some stripper from Menards and it didn't work nearly as well.

Get some heavy rubber gloves cause the stuff heats up a lot (not an inside job). Just use a brush and brush it on. Leave it for a couple of minutes and watch it bubble up then use some steel wool to remove the paint. After you get the majority of it off you can use some wet sand paper to get any stubborn spots.

That's how I do it and no problems yet.

[noise_is_life]

Will Zip Strip work at low tempuratures?

[berrywise]

Will Zip Strip work at low tempuratures?
Very good point. I gotta say that I don't know as I have only used it during the summer. Maybe there is a stripping expert in the group :)

[transplant]

A few years ago, a buddy and I stripped and painted another friend's Fisher frame. We used a product called aircraft remover, nasty stuff. The original powdercoat was done so well, we ended up having to sandblast what wouldn't come off with the remover/sanding process. The painting was easy because we had access to a pro paint booth. Make sure you apply a light coat of grease to all threads and the inside of the dropouts. Then put tape over that, otherwise you'll be chasing paint out instead of assembling. Once we put on 3 coats, we applied a layer of clearcoat over them for durability. We even customized with stickers, under the clearcoat, once the paint dried. As far as durability goes, we never got to see how long it lasted. The bike got stolen 4 months later :cryin:.

[FSSS]

Maybe there is a stripping expert in the group :)
I had a buddy that used to strip back in college...

[funky-funky-chicken]

Related to the other post about my fixie project, does anyone have tips about stripping paint from a frame?Depending on the condition of the paint on your existing bike, you might just consider lightly sanding your existing paint, then re-spraying. Speaking from the experience of having stripped an old Cannondale frame, it was a messy and difficult task to get everything off down to the aluminum. The original paint was very thick. When repainting, as someone else stated, you will need to make sure to use a high quality primer (metal etching for alumimum.)

About a year ago or so, I thought someone posted information about a powder coater here in the cities (I wanna say Plymouth.) It would be nice to know if there is a local source for just a quicky and economical one-color sandblast and powdercoat?

[funky-funky-chicken]

About a year ago or so, I thought someone posted information about a powder coater here in the cities (I wanna say Plymouth.) It would be nice to know if there is a local source for just a quicky and economical one-color sandblast and powdercoat?
Found the thread:
http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10046

For $80, it would certainly be worth it to me to have someone else powder coat a frame. (I think it cost me about $60 in materials for high quality automotive primer and paint for my Cannondale. Oh, and a case of beer to my buddy who actually did all the painting.)

[soupboy]

...just have it sandblasted and powdercoated by that shop in Ply-mouth.

Save the liquid paint stripper for a quiet evening at home.

Sean

[LightWeight]

I've used a citrus-based stripper I got from Home Depot on a frame that worked pretty well. Sprayed it on and left it overnight and the paint and decals came off with just a little steel wool. I used 3 coats of primer, 4 coats of paint and 5 or 6 coats of clear and the paint still scratched pretty easily. I'm taking my next frame to be sandblasted and painted by an auto body guy. I'm hoping that will make for a stronger finish.

[noise_is_life]

Lot's of good info here, I'm still considering the powder coat option.

Does anyone know what that guy charges to sand blast, I think the $80 was just for powdercoating the already stripped frame.

Depending on how much it is I figured I could at least give stripping a shot in an attempt to save some money.

[el gueche]

i'm currently stripping my cro-mo rockhopper, after bob brown's conversion - the specialized paint job had held up very well and this is what i've done so far - picked up a rattlecan stripper at Checkers - my goal is to have it at the plymouth powdercoaters this coming monday or tuesday and i've little time so i've been doing a little at a time - monday) bombed it before bed and cleaned it in the morning - ok results - tuesday) bombed before work waited 10 - 15 minutes and cleaned it - much better results and still not using the proper clean up materials - used last of stripper - wednesday) stopped at ace, purchased smallest can of zip strip, brass brushes for the joints and hard to reach areas, rubber gloves, and steel wool - will finish before the end of the weekend - if i would have had the proper clean up tools the 1 can of stripper (tal strip) would have done the job - my work area is a small corner in a basement - the tal strip fumes were not offensive - the temp somewhere around 60 - in my opinion a bicycle frame is so small that it's an unintrusive project - if all goes well i will be up at the strippers monday morning and can report back as to cost of sandblasting, though i don't think it will be necessary to blast - i've also had a lot of sandblasting projects for motorcycle parts and the few areas i envision as possible problems (nooks and crannies) i think i can clean w/the brass brushes and tal strip - over

[noise_is_life]

i'm currently stripping my cro-mo rockhopper, after bob brown's conversion

That actually anwsers another question I had. Whether Bob would need a clean frame to do his work on, apparently not.

[el gueche]

nope, he also cleaned the little gubbins off the bike and added a cable guide for the rear brake - an extra $40 but it's oh so sweet - i'm dreaming up the decals because after so much work i can't have a beauty w/out a handle - dick, keep it rigid - inside a crown and on the seat and down tubes - biatchi - extra $, of course, but if i remember correctly, that's why i work - oh well - and remember if you're gonna get gopped up, get gopped up on goop

[noise_is_life]

What kind of decals are you having made, I thought I read someplace about there being trouble getting decals to stick to powder coat...maybe they were talking about bare metal, can't remember.

[el gueche]

pat, i've emailed you - richard

[noise_is_life]

pat, i've emailed you - richard

Hmmm, don't see that in my inbox, I'll have to check the spam filter...

Yep, there it is.

[el gueche]

the frame is 99% finished - gonna put my dremel to the extremely hard to reach areas and then clean and degrease - monday i'll drop her off in plymouth and bam - over

[TML]

Pat,

Thanks for asking all the questions and doing all the legwork. I think the 'ol univega single is gonna get a redressing this winter. Haven't decided on if it's gonna be rattlecan or powdercoat though.

Good info everyone, thanks.

--troy

[JBergland]

PERFORMANCE IND. COATING, INC.
21025 Edmonton Avenue, PO Box 127
Farmington, MN 55024-0127
(651) 463-3388

I called these guys a couple weeks ago. If the frame is ready to paint, they'll do basic black for around $50. Colors are a little bit more. I believe they might also offer some sandblasting... although I'm not 100% sure.

Here's a way to try and save a little $$$$$$$. The key is to make it as easy for the painter as possible. If you can have the frame ready-to-go (ie all the painter has to do is a final wipe-down), they like that. If you can be flexable with paint color (ie painting a frame takes very little paint... most painters would rather use a color they have in stock vs. ordering a small amount of something new), they also like that. I've also 'heard' painters REALLY like is when you have an open time table... leave the frame with them and they'll throw on some black/yellow/red/etc. next time they have that color paint loaded up in the gun.

Good Luck!!

JB


Pat,

Thanks for asking all the questions and doing all the legwork. I think the 'ol univega single is gonna get a redressing this winter. Haven't decided on if it's gonna be rattlecan or powdercoat though.

Good info everyone, thanks.

--troy

[berrywise]

Does anyone know of any custom car painters in the area? I always figured a nice auto shop that does custom painting would be able to have your bike next to the car they are painting and to do your frame at the same time.

Like it was stated below you probably wouldn't be able to get the exact color you want but at least you could get something cool with metal flake or what not for cheap.

if you know of anyone please post.

[el gueche]

dropped the frame off today - white $65 by the end of the week - plymouth powder coat

[el gueche]

i have a i mc buddy that paints customs - he did an old trackmaster tank and bump seat for me - richard petty colors with an off white pin stripe - had another friend out in long lake do some STP duplicate decals but did HTH (highway to hell) - then a clear coat over that - to finish it off we got the tank to a hand painter and i had "see ya in hell" in a nice hillbilly script - very cool and pricey - about $500 - i can call him and see if the shop he's at is allowing side projects but again he aint cheap - if interested let me know