How to For Logs

[homebrewbiker]

Was at the Minnesota Valley Trail and got my ass kicked by some of those logs and log piles. I think I found on the log piles that I was being too tentative and was not having enough momentum to get beyond the top, so I had better success when I just went at them more aggressively.

However, there was one log pretty much sitting by itself, and found that my bike got stuck if I try to do a 2 step wheelie over it and shift weight to the front to try to un weight my back tire after I go over. I am thinking maybe my chain ring is catching or something. I have a Rock Hopper 2000 FS and have found that it rides kind of low even if I am not seated. But maybe I just need more momentum to get over it?

My bunnyhopping skills are inconsistent at best, did not want to try hopping at full speed only to either not clear the font, or clear the front and have my back jam against it. Either way I think even with clipless pedals I would be airborn.

[manual63]

One of the issues with FS is that the suspension compresses as you go over the log and lowers your chainring clearance.

Your best bet would be to go slow. When you front wheel approaches the log, wheelie so your front wheel lands on top of the log. Now as the front wheel starts to go over, pop up the rear wheel so it land on top of the log and allow the front wheel to roll down the back side. While you pop up your rear wheel, push the bike forward and lean back over the rear wheel allowing your knees to bend. You rear end should almost hit the rear tire. I have a picture of me in the photos section. I will post it when I find it......hold on a sec.

[manual63]

http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=472&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=1


Here is a link to my photo.

Notice how far back my weight is and how the bike is way out in front of me. This is an extreme case, which shows how far you can allow the bike to go forward. This was a very steep downside on this rock, so I had to lean way back.

By popping up the rear tire as the front tire leaves the log and rolls down the backside, you can hopefully clear the chainring. At the same time you pop up the rear wheel, lunge the bike forward and get your weight back over the rear tire like you see me in the picture. This will keep you from going over the bars. As always, I suggest learning this stuff on smaller objects and not clipped in at first. Then move up to larger objects. You should not learn these things using clipless, you should learn the correct technique, then only use clipless as an added tool later. I have regular BMX style platforms in this photo, no clipless.

Oh, don't be a fool like me.....wear your helmet....:).

I saw a guy on my last ride land right on top of his head.....I mean that was the first thing to hit the ground.....scary. I don't care if I have a helmet on or not, but most riders should!!!

[homebrewbiker]

http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=472&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=1


Here is a link to my photo.

Notice how far back my weight is and how the bike is way out in front of me. This is an extreme case, which shows how far you can allow the bike to go forward. This was a very steep downside on this rock, so I had to lean way back.

By popping up the rear tire as the front tire leaves the log and rolls down the backside, you can hopefully clear the chainring. At the same time you pop up the rear wheel, lunge the bike forward and get your weight back over the rear tire like you see me in the picture. This will keep you from going over the bars. As always, I suggest learning this stuff on smaller objects and not clipped in at first. Then move up to larger objects. You should not learn these things using clipless, you should learn the correct technique, then only use clipless as an added tool later. I have regular BMX style platforms in this photo, no clipless.

Oh, don't be a fool like me.....wear your helmet....:).

I saw a guy on my last ride land right on top of his head.....I mean that was the first thing to hit the ground.....scary. I don't care if I have a helmet on or not, but most riders should!!!Well it certainly sounds like the hardest part is poppig the rear tire as the front tire rolls over the back of the log. This sounds like a slow speed manuever so doesn't sound like downside is any worse than getting stuck 1/2 way between.

At Terrace Oaks I kind of forgot about the bit about keeping your weight back when I went over the stump in the Advanced section. Landed with a lot weight on my front, my front fork bobbed and I bounced into a tree, but was going slow enough I was able to steady myself on the tree at least.

And I always wear my helmet (even though I've never even scratched it except to go head first through branches at Wirth Parkway).

[zerpy]

I have a much easier technique. Usually I ride up, get the front wheel over then kind of stall, wobble a bit as I struggle to get unclipped then keel over to the side. Hopefully you didn't get run over by anyone behind you... Then you pick your bike up and walk it over. That's been working great for me for a while now...:crazy:


I've never gotten the hang of, at least intentionally, popping up the rear wheel, still working on it...

[manual63]

I have a much easier technique. Usually I ride up, get the front wheel over then kind of stall, wobble a bit as I struggle to get unclipped then keel over to the side. Hopefully you didn't get run over by anyone behind you... Then you pick your bike up and walk it over. That's been working great for me for a while now...:crazy:


I've never gotten the hang of, at least intentionally, popping up the rear wheel, still working on it...Just practice in a parking lot sometime. You just crouch low and then spring up, kind of like a bunnyhop, but have your weight forward. Once your legs are extended, push forward with your arms and compress your legs (pull them up into you body by allowing the knees to bend). Think of how you would shoot a basketball. If you wanted to run and jump over something you would run up to the object, crouch low, then spring up into the air. To make sure you get over the object, you would bend your knees and try to get as high off the ground as you can. It's the same motions, except you push forward on the bars as you compress your legs up into the air. This will pop the rear wheel off the ground. Don't have your weight forward the whole time, kind of lunge it forward as you push forward on the bars.

If you have clipless pedals, the wheel will come up because you are literally pulling up the bike with the pedals. This is not the correct way to do it. Get some BMX platforms and some Vans for practicing these things.......trust me, you will love me for this advice later when you put your clipless back on and you have that extra control.

I can flip myself over the bars just by lifting my rear wheel.....with platforms. I used to do this in the grass when I did freestyle flatland.......for some reason I thought it was cool.....:crazy:.

[berrywise]

The way I started with my girlfriend was to practise riding up onto a curb. Her biggest difficulty was the timing. Getting the rear tire up over the curb before it bangs into it. With a single log this is almost an instantaneous reaction (depending on your speed) with a quick body adjustment to get the front over and then the rear.

Now she's onto bigger piles of logs. Now to just work on keeping those fingers off the front brake :D

http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/data/516/717laura_logs.jpg

[homebrewbiker]

I have a much easier technique. Usually I ride up, get the front wheel over then kind of stall, wobble a bit as I struggle to get unclipped then keel over to the side. Hopefully you didn't get run over by anyone behind you... Then you pick your bike up and walk it over. That's been working great for me for a while now...:crazy:


I've never gotten the hang of, at least intentionally, popping up the rear wheel, still working on it...
Well my previous technique was similar to this. Pop the wheel over the log, come to a sudden stop as my chain ring jams into the log, try to get unclipped, sometimes get unclipped and walk over the log, other times manage to topple over while trying to get unclipped and stuck on the log. Something tells me that this isn't the way it is supposed to work. :p

[manual63]

The way I started with my girlfriend was to practise riding up onto a curb. Her biggest difficulty was the timing. Getting the rear tire up over the curb before it bangs into it. With a single log this is almost an instantaneous reaction (depending on your speed) with a quick body adjustment to get the front over and then the rear.

Now she's onto bigger piles of logs. Now to just work on keeping those fingers off the front brake :D

http://www.morcmtb.org/photopost/data/516/717laura_logs.jpg
That's a huge log pile. So huge, it's probably a log hill....not a log pile..:).

[homebrewbiker]

I think a log pile might actually be a bit easier regarding the chain wheel issue. Seems like my problem is that the front wheel lands on the other side of the log thus causing chain ring to get caught on front side of log. Since a log pile is angled up, seems like that would naturally prevent this from happeneing. Of course there is the whole issue of doing it without losing your nerve, once those doubts start to creep into your mind bad things happen (kind of like standing at the top of the ski run looking at the angle of the hill and all of those moguls):shocked:

I did see one of those log hills on teh MN valley trail, at that point I had already failed to navigate a couple of logs and log piles and my confidence was not too high so I passed.

[manual63]

I think a log pile might actually be a bit easier regarding the chain wheel issue. Seems like my problem is that the front wheel lands on the other side of the log thus causing chain ring to get caught on front side of log. Since a log pile is angled up, seems like that would naturally prevent this from happeneing. Of course there is the whole issue of doing it without losing your nerve, once those doubts start to creep into your mind bad things happen (kind of like standing at the top of the ski run looking at the angle of the hill and all of those moguls):shocked:

I did see one of those log hills on teh MN valley trail, at that point I had already failed to navigate a couple of logs and log piles and my confidence was not too high so I passed.
The point is to pop up the rear wheel when your chainring is at the lowest point where it will hit the log. Usually you just need to do it a little bit to get the chainring to clear it. If you lunge the bike forward as you pop up the rear wheel and keep your weight back (lunge the bike, not your body).....you don't need to worry about what the front wheel is doing. This is if the backside is not super steep. If the back side is super steep, you actually want to pull up on the front end so the front wheel does not catch and flip you over.

The technique and severity of motions really depends on the log pile itself. So it's not always the exact same motions to get over cleanly.

[berrywise]

Or go with my other motto: When in doubt air it out.

just air the whole thing.

[manual63]

Or go with my other motto: When in doubt air it out.

just air the whole thing.
That works as long as you know you can clear it.

I never touch the front side of most of the log piles at Leb. I usually bunnyhop before I get to the pile and land on the backside of the pile. Then I can kind of pump and gain speed off of the pile.

[transplant]

I want to see that done sometime. Just the thought of trying to launch over those piles makes me queasy.

[manual63]

I want to see that done sometime. Just the thought of trying to launch over those piles makes me queasy.
July 31st....dude!!!!

[transplant]

Give me a time and I'll get clearance from the better half.

[manual63]

Give me a time and I'll get clearance from the better half.
Follow this thread.

http://www.morcmtb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11078

It will be determined here.