About News
03-13-2004, 09:00 PM
Giving Your Mountain Bike a Spring Tune-Up
Before you hit the trails after a long winter’s snow, you should consider giving your bike a little pre-season TLC. Good bicycle maintenance means catching small problems before they become serious. Here are some things to think about… Clean it Up!
This is especially important if you put your bike away dirty at the end of the last season.<SCRIPT>zILo='';function zIca(a){zIwr=(zIfw>930&&!zILo&&(!this.zpid||this.zpa[2]==4096||a))?' align=left':'';w('<table border=0 width=300 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 style="padding:3px 30px 3px 0px"'+zIwr+q+xe+q);if(!zIwr){w(x0+'#b class=xsv style="margin-right:100px">More from your Guide below</a>');}if(a){z336=(this.si>0)?0:zpreC(336,280);if(z336>0){w(xf+'xs9v>'+at[4]+xh+xb);adunit('','','about.com',ch,gs,336,280,'1' ,'hslot1',3);}}else{z336=1;zIfr=1;w(xb);zab();}w(' '+qd+qc);}(zs>0)?zIca(0):zIca(1);</SCRIPT>
Before you reach for the water, knock everything bigger than a pimple off of your bike. Do this using a soft, dry paintbrush. Gather some cleaning brushes and warm water and clean the bike until it is spotless. Degrease the chain and let dry. Now you are ready for repair work.
Chain
Check for chain wear by taking a 12” ruler and lining one end up with the center of a link pin. The other end should line up exactly with the center of another pin. If it is off, you should replace the chain. Look for weak links that rattle and bent links that don’t smoothly turn around the jockey wheels of the rear derailleur. If the links “hitch” on the pulleys, replace the chain. Now oil ( prices (http://erclk.about.com/?zi=21/QI)) every link, one at a time; let sit and wipe off the excess oil.
Pedals
Make sure your pedals work properly by first making sure that every last bit of mud is cleared from them. Then, carefully lube the moving parts with your chain oil (prices (http://erclk.about.com/?zi=21/QI)) let sit and wipe of the excess.
Gears
Run through your gears by slowly turning the pedals and shifting. If your chain has a hard time moving from gear to gear, turn the barrel adjusters on the shifters one-quarter turn at a time until shifts are crisp. If shifting is not smooth at this point, you may need to replace your cables.
Cranks
Pull on your cranks to make sure there is no play. Spin cranks to make sure rotation is smooth. Play and grinding from these tests means you may need a new bottom bracket. <SUP>*</SUP> Assuming your crank is ok, (no play or grinding), you should then check the sprocket teeth. If they are not broken or hooked, they are probably good to go. If they look like a shark’s fin or have burrs on them, they need to be replaced. <SUP>*</SUP>Now check all of the crank bolts, to make sure they are tight.
Brakes
Disc: Check that rotor bolts are tight and that the rotors spin straight. If the rotors wobble slightly, they can be bent true with large pliers. Check brake pads for wear and replace them if necessary.
V-Brakes: All v-brakes have a notch on the pads that is the wear indicator. As they wear, readjust them so they don’t dive under the rim. Also, make sure the pads don’t rub the tire when the brake lever is depressed.
Hubs
Hold the wheel (front or rear) from the top and move from side to side. It should have no play. Spin the wheel and listen for grinding. It should spin smoothly – and quietly. If you experience play in the wheel and/or hear a grinding noise, the wheel bearings probably need to be replaced. <SUP>*</SUP>
Rims
If you use rim brakes, check the rim for wear. If they are “dished” too much (worn concave by brake pads), they may need to be replaced. <SUP>*</SUP> > Slight dishing is not a problem, although the more they wear, the less braking power you will have. Also, check for wheel wobbles. If the rim is slightly out of true, adjust spokes, three at a time, from the most extreme point of the wobble. To do this, loosen spokes one-quarter turn at a time at the side the wobble is reaching to. Then, tighten spokes one-quarter turn at a time at the side of the rim the tire is wobbling away from. With a little patience, you will get the rim straight.
Frame
Check frame for stress fractures, cracks, dents, dings or missing paint. Any minor blemishes can be repainted and touched up. For fractures or cracks, it is best to contact the manufacturer and have the frame replaced. Tires
Your tires should be free of cracks and have no broken knobs or scuffs.<SCRIPT>zILo='';function zIca(a){zIwr=(zIfw>930&&!zILo&&(!this.zpid||this.zpa[2]==4096||a))?' align=left':'';w('<table border=0 width=300 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 style="padding:3px 30px 3px 0px"'+zIwr+q+xe+q);if(!zIwr){w(x0+'#b class=xsv style="margin-right:100px">More from your Guide below</a>');}if(a){z336=(this.si>0)?0:zpreC(336,280);if(z336>0){w(xf+'xs9v>'+at[4]+xh+xb);adunit('','','about.com',ch,gs,336,280,'1' ,'hslot1',3);}}else{z336=1;zIfr=1;w(xb);zab();}w(' '+qd+qc);}(zs>0)?zIca(0):zIca(1);</SCRIPT>
Adjust tire pressure to recommended lbs (typically somewhere between 35lbs and 60lbs). The correct tire pressures are usually printed on the side of the tire.
Suspension
Check suspension for proper pressure settings (air can be lost over the winter months). Make sure suspension cycles smoothly – front or rear. Any play in travel may require replacement of bushings or bearings. <SUP>*</SUP> If you have never had a shop service your suspension and you have been riding for quite some time, it is best to have a suspension tune-up.
*If you are not handy, you may need a bike mechanic for this operation. Don’t experiment if you aren’t sure.
Before you hit the trails after a long winter’s snow, you should consider giving your bike a little pre-season TLC. Good bicycle maintenance means catching small problems before they become serious. Here are some things to think about… Clean it Up!
This is especially important if you put your bike away dirty at the end of the last season.<SCRIPT>zILo='';function zIca(a){zIwr=(zIfw>930&&!zILo&&(!this.zpid||this.zpa[2]==4096||a))?' align=left':'';w('<table border=0 width=300 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 style="padding:3px 30px 3px 0px"'+zIwr+q+xe+q);if(!zIwr){w(x0+'#b class=xsv style="margin-right:100px">More from your Guide below</a>');}if(a){z336=(this.si>0)?0:zpreC(336,280);if(z336>0){w(xf+'xs9v>'+at[4]+xh+xb);adunit('','','about.com',ch,gs,336,280,'1' ,'hslot1',3);}}else{z336=1;zIfr=1;w(xb);zab();}w(' '+qd+qc);}(zs>0)?zIca(0):zIca(1);</SCRIPT>
Before you reach for the water, knock everything bigger than a pimple off of your bike. Do this using a soft, dry paintbrush. Gather some cleaning brushes and warm water and clean the bike until it is spotless. Degrease the chain and let dry. Now you are ready for repair work.
Chain
Check for chain wear by taking a 12” ruler and lining one end up with the center of a link pin. The other end should line up exactly with the center of another pin. If it is off, you should replace the chain. Look for weak links that rattle and bent links that don’t smoothly turn around the jockey wheels of the rear derailleur. If the links “hitch” on the pulleys, replace the chain. Now oil ( prices (http://erclk.about.com/?zi=21/QI)) every link, one at a time; let sit and wipe off the excess oil.
Pedals
Make sure your pedals work properly by first making sure that every last bit of mud is cleared from them. Then, carefully lube the moving parts with your chain oil (prices (http://erclk.about.com/?zi=21/QI)) let sit and wipe of the excess.
Gears
Run through your gears by slowly turning the pedals and shifting. If your chain has a hard time moving from gear to gear, turn the barrel adjusters on the shifters one-quarter turn at a time until shifts are crisp. If shifting is not smooth at this point, you may need to replace your cables.
Cranks
Pull on your cranks to make sure there is no play. Spin cranks to make sure rotation is smooth. Play and grinding from these tests means you may need a new bottom bracket. <SUP>*</SUP> Assuming your crank is ok, (no play or grinding), you should then check the sprocket teeth. If they are not broken or hooked, they are probably good to go. If they look like a shark’s fin or have burrs on them, they need to be replaced. <SUP>*</SUP>Now check all of the crank bolts, to make sure they are tight.
Brakes
Disc: Check that rotor bolts are tight and that the rotors spin straight. If the rotors wobble slightly, they can be bent true with large pliers. Check brake pads for wear and replace them if necessary.
V-Brakes: All v-brakes have a notch on the pads that is the wear indicator. As they wear, readjust them so they don’t dive under the rim. Also, make sure the pads don’t rub the tire when the brake lever is depressed.
Hubs
Hold the wheel (front or rear) from the top and move from side to side. It should have no play. Spin the wheel and listen for grinding. It should spin smoothly – and quietly. If you experience play in the wheel and/or hear a grinding noise, the wheel bearings probably need to be replaced. <SUP>*</SUP>
Rims
If you use rim brakes, check the rim for wear. If they are “dished” too much (worn concave by brake pads), they may need to be replaced. <SUP>*</SUP> > Slight dishing is not a problem, although the more they wear, the less braking power you will have. Also, check for wheel wobbles. If the rim is slightly out of true, adjust spokes, three at a time, from the most extreme point of the wobble. To do this, loosen spokes one-quarter turn at a time at the side the wobble is reaching to. Then, tighten spokes one-quarter turn at a time at the side of the rim the tire is wobbling away from. With a little patience, you will get the rim straight.
Frame
Check frame for stress fractures, cracks, dents, dings or missing paint. Any minor blemishes can be repainted and touched up. For fractures or cracks, it is best to contact the manufacturer and have the frame replaced. Tires
Your tires should be free of cracks and have no broken knobs or scuffs.<SCRIPT>zILo='';function zIca(a){zIwr=(zIfw>930&&!zILo&&(!this.zpid||this.zpa[2]==4096||a))?' align=left':'';w('<table border=0 width=300 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 style="padding:3px 30px 3px 0px"'+zIwr+q+xe+q);if(!zIwr){w(x0+'#b class=xsv style="margin-right:100px">More from your Guide below</a>');}if(a){z336=(this.si>0)?0:zpreC(336,280);if(z336>0){w(xf+'xs9v>'+at[4]+xh+xb);adunit('','','about.com',ch,gs,336,280,'1' ,'hslot1',3);}}else{z336=1;zIfr=1;w(xb);zab();}w(' '+qd+qc);}(zs>0)?zIca(0):zIca(1);</SCRIPT>
Adjust tire pressure to recommended lbs (typically somewhere between 35lbs and 60lbs). The correct tire pressures are usually printed on the side of the tire.
Suspension
Check suspension for proper pressure settings (air can be lost over the winter months). Make sure suspension cycles smoothly – front or rear. Any play in travel may require replacement of bushings or bearings. <SUP>*</SUP> If you have never had a shop service your suspension and you have been riding for quite some time, it is best to have a suspension tune-up.
*If you are not handy, you may need a bike mechanic for this operation. Don’t experiment if you aren’t sure.