Single Speed

[BrightYellow]

I was just talking to a buddy of mine and he's getting jazzed up about getting a Single Speed. I've never ridden one, but I've seen a ton of them on the trail and I know they are probably more popular in Minnesota than anywhere.

I was wondering is what do people like about their Single Speed's? Why did you buy them (or make them)? If you bought them, then why did you buy that particular model? What am I missing out on?

-D

[gopherhockey]

I am also very interested in this. Mountain Bike Magazine ran an article stating that a single speed is a great way to mix things up as to not burn out from regular mountain biking (as if I could hehe)

All the same, it sounds interesting and I'd like to look into getting into this game..

[KleinCrazy]

I built mine about 2 years ago and love it.

Almost all the trails in the metro are 2X1 doable though the climbs can get a little tough with that gearing. River Bottoms is a perfect Single trail and shifting is pretty useless down there.

I have found that I have learned to ride much better since building and riding the Single. You learn to make use of Momentum, Plan ahead for turns, climbs and descents better. You also learn to pick smoother lines and make better use of every pedal stroke.

I am actually about to buy another frame to turn into a single this afternoon. Carbon Klein Mantra. Hehe Full Suspension Single Speed and under 21 pounds, and no need for equipment to take of chain movement. Completely Built for under 400$ hopefully.

I am taking the single to KC I think so if anyone want to give it a ride let me know. Plus if you ever want to give it a try just ask.
'96 Klein Attitude.

L8er

[Burke]

As James said, singles make you a better rider. If you don't pick a good line and maintain your momentum, you don't have gears to bail you out.

I've got a Surly 1x1, and love it. I alternate a rigid fork with a suspension fork every now and then. I think I actually enjoy the rigid more for Metro-style riding.

[lou1s]

Last summer I was curious about the single speed phenomenon as well. What attracted me was the promise of a smoother spin along with some gained strength and endurance. Kenwood Cyclery (in Kenwood) lined me up with the parts I needed to convery my old Breezer to a one-speed, and I was able to perform the conversion without a problem. After a few rides, I was hooked. I'll still be spending most of my saddle time on my geared rig, but one or two rides a week on the one-speed definately keeps things interesting. The one-speed hurts. Hills are tougher, maintaining momentum is much more important, and you do need to spin faster and smoother. It sounds dumb, but not thinking about shifting is nice. Overall, one-speeds are just fun. I like the simplicity and purity. Sometimes a spin on the one-speed really beats me down. Usually I come home late and smiling.

eric

[gopherhockey]

Ok.. I'm sold. Where is the best place to buy a Surly single speed?

I see there is a new Surly Karate Monkey 29" single speed frame coming out that looks interesting... but I don't see any complete bike kits yet though.

I know a few others that have the 1x1 and seem to like it. Seems like a pretty popular model.

[KleinCrazy]

Steve will have his with him in KC next weekend.

Best place to get a Surly would be Freewheel IMHO.

Or just ask around a little at get one right from QBP??

Salsa also makes a nice single, Kenwood has Bob building some very nice custom Singles also.

James

[lou1s]

I would try to get a decent ride on someone else's one-speed before I dropped the cash on a new rig. I went the cheap route with a conversion on an old beater because I didn't know if the novelty would wear off, leaving me with a rig I didn't ride. That's just my opinion, though. If I wasn't a cheapskate, I would've had Kenwood hook me up with a 1x1 or a DISS...

eric

[gopherhockey]

Yea, I'm definitely hoping to ride one or two before a purchase - but like to start researching costs & configurations about 50 years before I buy something... ;)

I think that might come from not having a lot of options for higher end equipment in this area - my last 3 bikes I was never able to ride first before purchasing, so I had to do a lot of research...

[BrightYellow]

You guys are getting me pumped up. I know I run into a big lull later in the summer and maybe a single speed would help me though that. Is it worth converting my old hardtail, or is better to just go with a surly 1x1? How much would a decent conversion cost?

Maybe this is what I need? :shocked: http://www.sevencycles.com/mountain/singlespd.html

[lou1s]

I believe a nice Spot chainring, a Surly Singleator, cassette spacers, and a track cog cost me about $120. I did the conversion myself. I could've gone cheaper on the chainring and used my old derailleur.

eric

[KleinCrazy]

Conversion kinda depends.

If you have a complete hardtail with non horizontal drops.

Cheapest.
Surly Singulator SRP $50 Hold chain for no Horizontal drops
Surly Fixer SRP $70 Converts Shim Hub to Singlespeed
Depending on crankset you might need arms and a ring.

Truvativ Stylo Single Speed Crank SRP #140
If you want Single wheels a a Surly rear would be $100-150
So you can convert for very little money.

A new /used singlespeed specific bike will run from 650 - Way Too Much.

Makers Surly, Salsa, Cannondale, Seven, Bob Brown ( Kenwood Builder), IF, Van Dessel, Rock Lobster. Sofa King, DeKerf, Kona, and a few other builders that will work a single up just for you. Langreck over at Levis Trow builds some beautiful frames.

Kurt has a beautiful single that uses a eccentric Bottom bracket to take care of chain length. A builder using these is Tom Teesdale, gorgeous bikes.

Hope this Helps

[martini]

Why yes, I DO have one. And boy do I love it! I know there's been some curiosity about these bikes out there, and not many shops stock them for test rides. I'm more than willing to let folks try mine out at Lebanon or where ever. Only thing is, you better be over 6-3 so you can fit on it :) !

http://www.fox302.com/userdata/martini/files/Photoes/Hunterwinter.jpg

GopherHockey, you CAN get a complete Karate Monkey from your favorite LBS. QBP now has a bike builder program that allows participating dealers to order up Surly's (and Salsa's, Basso's and Banshee's) as complete bikes, buiilt by extremely competent mechanics at the Q facility. They've got SS 29", geared 29", well anything you can imagine putting on any bike listed above, they've got the parts to do it.

Hey Klien Crazy, are you really going to KC next weekend? Is there room in the vehicle, or do you know of someone else going? email me to let me know: unclefuzzy_99@hotmail.com

[dennis porter]

Here's what I recommend to make a single speed if you don't want to throw a bunch of money at it right away.

1. Buy a Surly Singleator and read the INSTRUCTIONS!! Most people don't read the instuctions and install it incorrectly.
2. Buy Some steel single chainring bolts.
3. Look at you middle chain ring. If it's got ramps and pins. Buy a 32 tooth flat ring. Don't use a worn chain ring! If your chain comes off when your really cranking you'll soon find out why this is extremely important.
4. Buy a Shimano DX BMX Cog 16 tooth for everyday use and a 18 tooth cog for hilly terain. Here's the key you must have a full tooth cog. Using old cogs that are made for shifting will do the same thing listed above, your chain will jump off when your cranking on it. Plus these cogs are cheap they are at the most $5.00 bucks.
5. Get some different size cassette spacers. This will be very important when you are setting up you chainline.
6. Buy some wide handle bars. Wide bars give you more leverage when your cranking.

Now your set. Take your middle ring and move it to the inside of the middle chain ring spider of your crank arms. This moves your chain closer to the bottom braket. Use those single chain ring bolts. Then put your wheel in and determine the straightest chain line. Use your assorted size cassette spacers and put that cog in the straightest spot possible. Put the chain on with your properly installed by reading the directions Singleator and your ready. The 18 tooth cog will make you spin like crazy on flat sections, but when you out riding at Buck Hill on lap number 3 your knees will thank you.

[KleinCrazy]

I have 1 suggestion to dennis formula below.

I like to run abigger front ring if the frame has the clearence. This allows for more torque / power with each pedal stroke.

I run 34X17 and 34X18 I started out with a 36X18 but I drug my chain on the Chainstay dues to length issues with the Singulator.

I have my Singulator pushing my chain up towards the Chainstay. wraps more chain around the cog. If I set it up to Puch the chain down I could go back to the 36but then I will have fewer teeth on the Chain in back.

One advantage of the singulator is with a dualsided rear wheel you can easily change gear rations in a quick stop. I think on most horizontal dropped bikes you can alos but it involves more work and you can't go from a 16 to a 20 like Steve is oft to do in hilly terrain :P

Don't know if any of my thoeries actually work but the seem sound in my head.

I agree with Dennis, the wider the Bars the Better. I started with a std 22" flat bar and when I switched to a 26" low rise it was a whole new bike.

I also suggest 180mm Crank arms. once again more power and leverage per pedal stroke.

L8er

[gopherhockey]

Originally posted by Tom S.
So, how come you can't just ride a regular mtn bike and just not shift? Then you don't need to buy a new bike. :D

Tom S.

Good question. Weight perhaps? Temptation. People riding up behind you wondering why you haven't learned to shift yet.. ? :)

What fun is having just one bike anyway? hehe

[smeulebroe]

Here's a dumb question as I am new to the single speed world. Can I use a quick release skewer on the back? I was thinking that it would be easier to get that rear tire off instead of the nuts that are there now. Just wondering.

[martini]

Originally posted by smeulebroe
Can I use a quick release skewer on the back? I was thinking that it would be easier to get that rear tire off instead of the nuts that are there now. Just wondering.

Sure, you can use a QR, but the chances of your wheel sliding forward from tourque are much greater. This is assuming that your bike has track(horizontal) ends on the back. If you're running converted, a QR will work fine. People use nuts or bolts because you can get greater hold with them, preventing the wheel from sliding forward. If you're concerned about getting a wheel off, it really isn't all that more difficult. It's just a technique you have to learn.

ml

[SickBoy]

Here's what I did.

I had Bob Brown modify the dropouts on an old Fisher cro-mo hardtail frame I had - installed horizontals. Then, I converted one of my old rear wheels to a 10x1 threaded axle and ordered some Crupi BMX chain tensioners. Works great, I rode the bike all of last spring and summer without ever having to touch anything, maintenance-wise on the rear end. Not a single thrown chain. I messed around with Singleators for a while but they never seemed to work for me.

But, if you have to use a conversion, Soulcraft makes a one-speed converter device that I think would work better - rather than using a spring, you swing it up and tighten a bolt down to lock it into place. I think there's less of a chance of a thrown chain when your bike is bouncing around over the roots with a setup like that. It basically is just an MRP style roller on a small arm that bolts into your derailleur hanger.

As far as cogs and whatnot, I just use a standard Sugino mountain crankset and cogs from a broken-apart regular cassette. Dennis' recommendation for using flat rings is a good idea though if you're going to be doing a conversion. Regular cogs/rings work OK for me because I am able to jack the tension way up with the BMX chain tensioners. I threw some chainring spacers on the bolts to make up for missing chainrings and then of course the extra cassette spacers to make up for missing cogs on the freehub. I have 16, 18 and 20 tooth rear cogs to run with a 34 front. I find myself just leaving the 20 on - I like the solid feel of having more teeth on the cogs. 34x20 is perfect at Buck Hill for thursday nights.

[gopherhockey]

How does this one sound:

Complete Surly Karate Monkey (package - nothing optional) for $900. It will be rigid with a Truvativ Stylo SS crank, Truvativ ISIS bb, Shimano freewheel, SRAM chain, Deore M510 brakes and levers, Cane Creek STS headset, Kalloy UNO post, Surly/Delgado wheels, Salsa Moto Ace Stem and Bar, Salsa grips, WTB Speed V saddle, and WTB Nanoraptors tire.

A Marzocchi would be an additional $330 for the MX Comp 29” fork.

[SickBoy]

Originally posted by gopherhockey
How does this one sound:

Complete Surly Karate Monkey (package - nothing optional) for $900. It will be rigid with a Truvativ Stylo SS crank, Truvativ ISIS bb, Shimano freewheel, SRAM chain, Deore M510 brakes and levers, Cane Creek STS headset, Kalloy UNO post, Surly/Delgado wheels, Salsa Moto Ace Stem and Bar, Salsa grips, WTB Speed V saddle, and WTB Nanoraptors tire.

A Marzocchi would be an additional $330 for the MX Comp 29” fork.

Hehe.. not bad. I'm a personal believer in the fact that the best singlespeeds are cobbled together from leftover parts, but if you gotta buy one this is a nice way to go.

Is the Karate Monkey a 29er?

[gopherhockey]

Yea, its a 29er. I'm kinda excited to try that out as well. I was gonna take my time and scour ebay but this bike came up and I got tempted. Since I claim about 0 knowledge of singlespeed bikes, I turned to you guys... now if I get this I'll have to ride with some of you and learn from the pros...

[gopherhockey]

Follow-up, since I haven't purchased this bike yet. (wasn't lucky like our own Kurt Lange and WIN one at the summit in KC)

Would you go with disc brakes, and if so just on the front or both?

I have been running into a lot of comments from people selling theirs to get bikes with disc brakes. I was told putting disc brakes on the rear would require a more expensive (Paul) hub. I would think a disc on the back would make it harder to flip the wheel around for gearing.. yet I saw a lot of them at KC this weekend with disc brakes. I saw a lot with disc brakes only on the front as well. (many with the avid mechanical)

Here is the big question.. if you had the choice of only having one singlespeed bike, would you get a 29er or not? I heard a few people saying they weren't going to ride their 29 on the trail at the summit. (reasons, I'm unsure of - guessing due to the large rocks, quick climbs & drops etc?)

[Burke]

flip flop rear with disc brakes? impossible. the nature of the beast says it can't be done (currently).

If you don't want to go with a singlespeed exclusive hub, you can get some inexpensive disc hubs and use BMX cogs and spacers to get the single effect. You can also run multiple gears on the same side of the hub this way. You change gears by repositioning the wheel in the drop-out and manually moving the chain.

29"... With the large wheels, they have a tendancy to maintain their momentum well over bumps and obstacles. However, being a larger wheel, they are more difficult to maneuver.

Personally, if I were looking for a singlespeed, I would get a 26".

I do see the benefit of a 29", but it doesn't fill the singlespeed niche in my fleet.

[martini]

29"... With the large wheels, they have a tendancy to maintain their momentum well over bumps and obstacles. However, being a larger wheel, they are more difficult to maneuver.

NO they are most definitely NOT harder to manuver! Take this from some one who has ridden them extensively for more than a year. I've ridden Fisher's, Surly's(proto's) and my own Hunter, and the ONLY place I've had trouble with my bike being 'manuverable' is at Theo Wirth in the newer ultra tight section. A section where even 26" bikes are tough to handle.

The key is geometry, we all know that. Not the simple wheel size geometry, but the whole kit-n-kaboodle. My bike has what you'd probably call traditional angles. 71°/73°, 24" tt, 140mm stem, 19" seattube.

You've really got RIDE one of these. And not just a demo ride around Lebanon(where my bike just kicks ass!). Take one there on three to four different occasions, because the ride IS different, but a good different.

Keep in mind there is no IDEAL bike, but I'm gonn akeep tootin' my horn about the big wheels, because I'm convinced that for this area, they really do come really close to being that ideal we all look for. And please, no more hear-say about the ride qualities of 29"er's. Leave those to me. Even though I'm biased, I am objective.

[MNbiker]

Originally posted by gopherhockey
How does this one sound:

Complete Surly Karate Monkey (package - nothing optional) for $900. It will be rigid with a Truvativ Stylo SS crank, Truvativ ISIS bb, Shimano freewheel, SRAM chain, Deore M510 brakes and levers, Cane Creek STS headset, Kalloy UNO post, Surly/Delgado wheels, Salsa Moto Ace Stem and Bar, Salsa grips, WTB Speed V saddle, and WTB Nanoraptors tire.

A Marzocchi would be an additional $330 for the MX Comp 29” fork.

John,

If you're gonna jump in with both feet, this is a pretty solid setup.

I'm with SickBoy on believing that the best singlespeeds should include some leftovers from the garage, swap meets & the Sibley Bike Depot. :D (maybe you can swap out a couple pieces with some beat up replacements, just to demonstrate the real singlespeed spirit!) :laugh: :laugh:

I would recommend spending some time on a 29er, before making a final decision. Those big wheels roll great - I'm currently lusting after one to replace my 30+lb mutant communter bike. However, I don't see replacing my 1x1 or Truth with a 29er in the foreseable future for two reasons:

1. I like to ride smallish, stiff frames with lots of standover clearance. 29ers make this REAL difficult, unless you're 6'3" or taller!

2. 29ers are less than ideal for bigger hits. (there's a reason many downhill bikes have 24" rear wheels and trials bikes have smaller wheels & 48 spokes!) I'll keep my Truth & fat tires for riding on the rocks out West.

-Steve

[gopherhockey]

I hate to keep pounding on this, but I'm trying to be sure I'm getting the right bike.

If you were building a 1x1 and had a choice of a front fork, which one would you go with?

Perhaps the best one for the $, and perhaps what you would buy if $ wasn't an issue.

I assume one doesn't need the same depth that you would normally put on an XC bike... ? Lockout - would this be a good option vs. having to switch between rigid and non-rigid?

Thanks all... at this time I'm leaning toward a 1x1 just due to... well... maybe lack of options for components at this time with the 29"...

[gopherhockey]

Here is a chain of messages from the previous mtbmn.com message board that were posted after I had moved the database over. I'm posting them all as one message just so nothing is missed in this thread:

----------------

John Lundell
"gopherhockey"
Administrator

Registered: Nov 2002
Location: Eagan
Posts: 352
Thanks for the adice you guys. I'm driving the guy crazy where I'm dealing on the bike, but it is fun. Now that I know I can get a 1x1 disc in black, thats where I'm headed. I love black bikes, not sure why...

And just for Steve, I'll rub some mud all over the singlespeed and maybe put on a nice old torn up seat to help make it not look like a "prissy" bike. I'd hate to have a singlespeed while also looking like "that guy" out on the trail..



---------------------------



Steve Garnjobst
"MNbiker"
MORC Prez

Registered: Nov 2002
Location: Maplewood, MN
Posts: 53
(Quote:)
Originally posted by Burke
New 1x1's have disc brake tabs front and rear. If you get one, go disc! The front wheels will at least be compatible between bikes. It's hard to beat discs for performance and reliable braking.


A set of Avid mechanical disc brakes would make for a nice setup. It will add a bit to the cost of your wheels & brakes, but I agree with Scott that the performance is nice to have. (Or you could be like me & use whatever you happen to have lying around!)

-Steve



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-------------------------------------

03-24-2003 09:40 PM



James Ford
"KleinCrazy"
MORC 2nd Vice President

Registered: Nov 2002
Location: South St. Paul
Posts: 75
Scott,

I have to agree woth you on disc. I just bought a Mars Steerer and Legs for the Klein and a whole Mars Elite Disc only for the internals and lowers. Gonna go to disc on front and Canti rear on the single. just need to find a cheap Avid Front disc and I'll have the swap done for under 200.

Plus the Judy XC was beginning to really suck!!!!!

I am going to wimp and keep a flip flop on the back as don't want to go all disc and loose that option.

L8er
James


__________________
James Ford
"KleinCrazy"
MORC 2nd Vice President
NCMBP Patroller
MinnesotaMTB.com Calendar Admin



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---------------------------------


03-24-2003 09:28 PM



Scott Thayer
"Burke"
MORC Board Member

Registered: Jan 2003
Location: Bloomington
Posts: 58
1x1's come with a rigid fork. You could go with that to begin with, and add a suspension fork if you feel like you need it later on (I can help you put it on if you're not sure how).

I keep going back and forth between rigid and suspension. I think I enjoy rigid more for around here. However, KC was pretty abusive, especially for the first real mtb ride of the year.

New 1x1's have disc brake tabs front and rear. If you get one, go disc! The front wheels will at least be compatible between bikes. It's hard to beat discs for performance and reliable braking.



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-------------------------------


03-24-2003 09:02 PM



Steve Garnjobst
"MNbiker"
MORC Prez

Registered: Nov 2002
Location: Maplewood, MN
Posts: 53
(Quote:)
Originally posted by gopherhockey
I hate to keep pounding on this, but I'm trying to be sure I'm getting the right bike.

If you were building a 1x1 and had a choice of a front fork, which one would you go with?

Perhaps the best one for the $, and perhaps what you would buy if $ wasn't an issue.

I assume one doesn't need the same depth that you would normally put on an XC bike... ? Lockout - would this be a good option vs. having to switch between rigid and non-rigid?

Thanks all... at this time I'm leaning toward a 1x1 just due to... well... maybe lack of options for components at this time with the 29"...


John,

You know what I chose - rigid fork, baby! It works just fine for local trails, makes you a better rider & comes with the frame for free. I think this is a great option, if you have a full suspension bike as well. It keeps your singlespeed extremely simple, cheap & low maintenance. Personally, I'd use the stock fork at first, then add a suspension fork later, if you get tired of your hands taking a beating.

If you must have a fork (and want high-end quality), I'd go for a Fox Float RLC - rigid, reasonably light, great build quality.

-Steve



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------------------------------


03-24-2003 08:42 PM



John Lundell
"gopherhockey"
Administrator

Registered: Nov 2002
Location: Eagan
Posts: 352
I hate to keep pounding on this, but I'm trying to be sure I'm getting the right bike.

If you were building a 1x1 and had a choice of a front fork, which one would you go with?

Perhaps the best one for the $, and perhaps what you would buy if $ wasn't an issue.

I assume one doesn't need the same depth that you would normally put on an XC bike... ? Lockout - would this be a good option vs. having to switch between rigid and non-rigid?

Thanks all... at this time I'm leaning toward a 1x1 just due to... well... maybe lack of options for components at this time with the 29"...

[gopherhockey]

Ok, so I had my first real single speed experience today at Lebanon with my new 1x1. I admit I was a bit nervous - espeically considering how much traffic was out there this afternoon. (we're going to have parking problems this year I bet)

Anyway, I LOVED it! It felt not so different, yet completely different. Yea, there were maybe a few times I would have wanted a little more or less gear in the back - but overall there really was no need to be shifting. I felt like my mind was free to enjoy other parts of the ride and not have to concentrate so much on what gear I was in.

I don't know.. it was just a few laps so far so I'm not going to get all Zen about it, especially in the midst of those that have been there done that for many years now. I just wanted to let everyone that has them that I'm starting to see the point, and to those that haven't tried it - you must!

:crazy:

[MNbiker]

Originally posted by gopherhockey
Ok, so I had my first real single speed experience today at Lebanon with my new 1x1. I admit I was a bit nervous - espeically considering how much traffic was out there this afternoon. (we're going to have parking problems this year I bet)

Anyway, I LOVED it! It felt not so different, yet completely different. Yea, there were maybe a few times I would have wanted a little more or less gear in the back - but overall there really was no need to be shifting. I felt like my mind was free to enjoy other parts of the ride and not have to concentrate so much on what gear I was in.

I don't know.. it was just a few laps so far so I'm not going to get all Zen about it, especially in the midst of those that have been there done that for many years now. I just wanted to let everyone that has them that I'm starting to see the point, and to those that haven't tried it - you must!

:crazy:

Yet another convert:p

[SickBoy]

Sweet...

I know for me, about 95% of the non-racing off road riding I do is on my single. And even some of the racing....

[KleinCrazy]

I must have just missed you John.

I left about 2:45. got about 45 minutes of real good video footage. Families, Racers, Retireies, everyday riders, Women, Kids, you name it I got it on film. No crashes yet though, Missed a good one by about 60 feet due to my lazy-ass this winter.

Think I probably picked up 4-5 new memberships coming in also!!!!


Glad to here you have converted, I was on gears due to the single being in the shop for a fork transplant.

I'll be on it next weekend however.

L8er

[gopherhockey]

I don't know if it is necessarily the single speed's fault, but my knees are really hurting after this mornings ride. It started hurting as I pushed up one of the climbing turns and has been bothering me all day.

Is there any relation to this due to the different power used with a single? It could have just been a coincidence... but I haven't had knee problems anytime before.

[MNbiker]

Originally posted by gopherhockey
I don't know if it is necessarily the single speed's fault, but my knees are really hurting after this mornings ride. It started hurting as I pushed up one of the climbing turns and has been bothering me all day.

Is there any relation to this due to the different power used with a single? It could have just been a coincidence... but I haven't had knee problems anytime before.

John,

You need to learn to stand up more for climbs on a SS. Seated climbing at a low pedal cadence is pretty hard on your knees.
:(

-Steve

[Burke]

If you're pushing too hard a gear, it will destroy your knees. Doesn't matter if you're on a singlespeed or a geared bike. Be careful. Raise your cadence and spin an easier gear.

[KleinCrazy]

Also Remember ....

Circles... always pedal in circles, you can get away with mashing up a hill with a geared bike since you and lower the stress buy choosing the gear, but mashing on a single i.e. pedaling in squares will kill your knees fast.

[gopherhockey]

Hmmm.. interesting! So my squared pedal stroke method isn't working out after all ;)

I will have to be more careful. I already feel like I'm out for a few days, would hate to chew up my knees for the entire season.

Maybe I need to ride along with one or more of you sometime and see how it is done.

I'm using a 32 front, 20 rear I believe. (and was even thinking of going to the 18 in the back)

It doesn't feel all that difficult, just in a few places (climbing turns usually, and perhaps the last climb out of the park) - but I do feel a lot more pressure on my legs than I'm used too in those areas. (in the past I liked to sping high rpm's - took me a long time to even move to the middle or large front ring because I just love to pedal)

Thanks for the advice! I better cool it for a bit...

[KleinCrazy]

Another thing would be to start out someplace other than Lebanon. It is one place where I would never try to get used to riding a single.

Take a few trips on the Riverbottoms where there You can used to the rhythm of a single speed and learn hills on a little more friendly of terrain.

32-20 should be plenty easy at lebanon. I Usually run 34-18 there, though a 34-20 would make it more doable and a little less of a grunt in places.

If you are more comfortable spinning real fast the stay at 32-20 and you'll be happy.

Riverbottoms is a definite 2-1 trails, 32-18.

L8er

[Trevize1138]

Idea based off discussion with BMX veteran co-worker:

A number of guys I know who've been BMX riding pretty solid since the '80s are really sour on the idea of single-speed MTBs. They seem to think that you may as well get a BMX racing bike.

I guess, from my point-of-view, I think everyone should ride some type of single speed bike, be it MTB or BMX and get good at it because it teaches you some good basics such as pumping the bike through dips and turns to maintain speed without gearing. I get the impression that the people most fascinated by single speeds are ones who've probably been riding geared bikes most of their lives and never got the "training" earlier on that BMX riding presented.

That said, I'm in the middle of converting my RockHopper Comp frame to a single speed *shh!* ;) I've been riding geared bikes since '81 when I got a Schwinn Sidewinder All Terrain 10-speed bike. 40lbs of trail hell, baby! (still have it, too).

[manual63]

I will argue on the BMX side of things, but I think Chris D summed it up well. I have been riding BMX since 1980 and yes to me a single speed mountain bike seems a bit weird. I have a 24" Schwinn Pro Mod BMX cruiser and it rules for bombing around town.

All I have to input here is what a BMX bike has to offer for those of you who are thinking of being single. They are smaller which makes them much more maneuverable. Most of the time you want to stand while jumping or going through technical sections. You learn to corner hard, pump through dips, and pedal fast. You also should run without clipless and learn to hop without them. This will give you a lot of additional control and skill.

My roots are from BMX, so of course I am opinionated on this issue. But honestly, I think that learning to ride a BMX bike, and jumping around a bit on one, can't hurt for any aggresive mountain biker. Learning more skills is always fun and a challenge.

Enjoy being single. This spoken from a truly married man.....:)