Some Road Biking questions.

[manual63]

First, I would like to start off by saying this is a MTB site. Second, the reason why I want to ask roadie Q's is because I know people here and trust many who have road experience to give good advice. I am not a roadie, so I don't want to join a roadie site..........yet......:). I would like to keep this as one thread with many Q's. That way, we don't have a bunch of roadie riding tips threads. Then again, maybe no one cares.

1. When do you use certain handlebar positions? Since I am used to a more upright position, I found myself mostly using the upper part of the bars, but I did have my hands reversed with palms inward and usually right on the curve.

2. I am not sure if my gears are badly adjusted or what, but I found the shifting to be hard. The levers have to be pushed all the way inward to shift up a gear and the same to go back down. It was not an easy click...click like on my Mountain bikes. Is this normal?

3. I need someone to go over body position with me or post a link to a good site, with images, that have this info.

4. Why the one sided pedals and do I need them for some reason I can't think of?

5. Where do you have your hands when standing and pedaling. I put mine on the brake lever boots....it just seemed right because I can just grab those suckers.

6. I am assuming seat height is the same as on a Moutain Bike.....am I right?

Don't worry, I will probably have more Q's for ya as I remeber them.

[jaybird]

Here's the best advice I have to each of your questions (sorry for the length, but long post requires long answers):

1. The handlebar position on a road bike is a lot like using extentions on a mountain bike - it just depends on when you need them. When I'm doing solo rides I'd bet I'm 85% in the uprights. But if I'm doing a group ride where I have someone else leading the train, then it's reversed and I'll be down on the lower bar. The only exception to this is when I have to ride in a strong headwind - then it's down on lower bar because of the better wind resistance. Unless you plan to do a lot of group rides or beginning races, I'd say don't worry about staying on the uprights.

2. This problem goes back to the same thing on mtn bikes - how good is your ride? If you got a used bike or you've ridden it quite a bit in the winter time, the cables may be sticking. If it's an older bike, then the shifting may be lacking the snappiness we've come to expect on a mtn bike due to the age of the components. I know back in the mid-90's the bikes back then did not have nearly the same zip on shift as they do now. Reply back with a description of the bike, age and components for a better answer.

3. The body position is based on two factors, how your legs are and how your arms are. The saddle should be adjusted up/down to give the same extension as you would on your mtn bike - at the bottom of the stroke your leg should be almost full straight. The next is the reach you have to the top handlebars with your arms. Once you have the saddle height set, get on the bike and check the position of your arms. They should not be strechted out all the way straight (your too far away) or less than a 90 degree break (your too close). The best position is about a 115 to 135 degree arc between your shoulder socket and your hands.

4. You I don't know either - I think it has something to do with a better wind resistance. I personally have the same set of clipless pedals as I do on my mtn bikes. There more comfortable for me and I can use the same shoes as I do when I mtn bike. Look at any of the pro mtn bike racers when you see photos of them riding a road bike - they all put the same pedal/cleat system as they have on their mtn bike.

5. Bingo.

6. See #3.

Hope this helps. My last 2 cents is that since I've added road biking to my routine I've been a better mtn biker. The aerobic conditioning that is needed for hard mtn biking has been more easily managed on a road bike. GOOD LUCK!


First, I would like to start off by saying this is a MTB site. Second, the reason why I want to ask roadie Q's is because I know people here and trust many who have road experience to give good advice. I am not a roadie, so I don't want to join a roadie site..........yet......:). I would like to keep this as one thread with many Q's. That way, we don't have a bunch of roadie riding tips threads. Then again, maybe no one cares.

1. When do you use certain handlebar positions? Since I am used to a more upright position, I found myself mostly using the upper part of the bars, but I did have my hands reversed with palms inward and usually right on the curve.

2. I am not sure if my gears are badly adjusted or what, but I found the shifting to be hard. The levers have to be pushed all the way inward to shift up a gear and the same to go back down. It was not an easy click...click like on my Mountain bikes. Is this normal?

3. I need someone to go over body position with me or post a link to a good site, with images, that have this info.

4. Why the one sided pedals and do I need them for some reason I can't think of?

5. Where do you have your hands when standing and pedaling. I put mine on the brake lever boots....it just seemed right because I can just grab those suckers.

6. I am assuming seat height is the same as on a Moutain Bike.....am I right?

Don't worry, I will probably have more Q's for ya as I remeber them.

[G-reg]

http://wrenchscience.com/WS1/Secure/Fitting/Height.asp
Some good info, don't take it as the Gospel, but it will get you in the ball park.

[PWAXON]

1.The three basic positions are the drops, the tops and the brake hoods. You will probable spend most of your time in on the brake hoods. Use the drops to get a more aero position or descending. For hills use the top of your bar for greater lung capacity

2.If you have a triple, shifting will be slightly more difficult then a double but it still should shift smoother than your is sounding. You might need to clean or replace your cables.

3.Keep your back as straight as possible. With your hands on the hoods your handlebar at the stem should cover your front hub, if it is way to long or too short replace it. It makes a big difference in comfort.

4.I use speedplay X series. 2 sided and plenty of float. My only gripe with Speedplay is they will not clip in if they get mud in the cleat. I have the covers to avoid that problem. You can use MTB peddles too if you want. Most road bike peddles have a larger platform for greater stability and are only one sided to save weight and give more clearance. Personally I think they are a pain also.


5.Good Choice!

6.Raise it to the point just before you start rocking on the saddle, the same as a XC setup. Position is important because you are sitting in that same position for long periods of time. The book below has a really good setup guide.

Bicycle magazine’s complete book of road cycling skills is a good resource for most of these questions.

There is a lot of advice and quite a few different opinions out there it’s a lot of trial and error at first.

Well that’s my 2 cents Happy riding!

[manual63]

http://wrenchscience.com/WS1/Secure/Fitting/Height.asp
Some good info, don't take it as the Gospel, but it will get you in the ball park.
I guess I need a tape measure for this one......:laugh:.

[Don Youngdahl]

6. I am assuming seat height is the same as on a Moutain Bike.....am I right?


The easiest, and best for me, of the several ways of determining seat height is as follows: sit on the seat, with your HEELS on the pedals and pedal backwards; set the seat height so you can just feel a bit of lessening of the pedaling pressure on your heels, but not so much that you need to rock your hips to maintain firm contact with the pedals.

Don Youngdahl

[manual63]

The easiest, and best for me, of the several ways of determining seat height is as follows: sit on the seat, with your HEELS on the pedals and pedal backwards; set the seat height so you can just feel a bit of lessening of the pedaling pressure on your heels, but not so much that you need to rock your hips to maintain firm contact with the pedals.

Don Youngdahl
Just like the cow.....right????

[manual63]

I went for a road ride Yesturday and stopped by Penn to get a Presta adaptor and get the correct tire pressure. Before my ride I adjusted the gears. Appearantly the alignment was one gear off. That means when I got in the smallest (rear) gear I had a lot of cable slack. I tightened it and aligned the shifting so it's a lot better now.

The tire pressure helped a lot and at one point, while accelerating to keep a car from passing and then turning right in front of me, I noticed I was doing like 31-32 MPH with just a few quick hard cranks.......way cool! I could not maintain this speed for long as I am way out of shape right now. Man, it's kinda fun being fast. I think the driver of the car was a little surprised when I just blew his doors off......:)!

As for road rules, I notice on a road bike, it's a lot easier and better to abide by the laws. Its nice to stop and then accelerate and since you can maintain a close to car speed in busy areas, I just signal and use the lanes like the cars......something I don't like to do much on my mountain bike or BMX bike. Once I put on some two sided pedals, I will even be quicker at starting. I am not used to balancing on such skinny tires, but I will get that down soon enough.

It's a very different world on a Road Bike. It has it's positives and it's negatives. I am just excited for now because it's new to me. I am sure I will soon miss my BMX or P.2 ride hitting every curb I can to bust air! I guess it will depend on my mood and the weather.

Thanks for the advice!

[Rocky Mountain]

Man, it's kinda fun being fast. I think the driver of the car was a little surprised when I just blew his doors off......:)!

As for road rules, I notice on a road bike, it's a lot easier and better to abide by the laws.
What I have been told and practice when road biking is to pretend you are a car involving proper law abiding rules. The most important is to get out in the turn lane since as you get closer to the curb cars are less likely to notice you. As an added safety feature for me I use a rear blinking light.

I will have to look you up once the weather gets warmer. I usually ride/train using the Kenwood Neighborhood hills.

You made the right choice buying a road bike since it will allow you to keep up with other bikers unlike some who buy FS bikes thinking it will make them faster.

[manual63]

I think it is better to get out into the road when approaching intersections. Like what you said about turn lanes. Don't follow the curb, unless your gonna turn, stay in the lane that goes straight. Cars that wanna turn will pass you on the right. Because of this, I will take up a little more of the lane I am in so I don't have a car passing me on the right and on the left at the same time. I also look behind me to see what's coming and I position myself accordingly. Since I both drive and ride, I like to try to not interfere with traffic as much as I can, but I do have to think about my own safety and kind of force cars to stay behind me sometimes.

Riding in traffic is a tough game. I found it safer and easier on my MTB or BMX bike, but on a road bike, I don't have the hop up the curb ability and menuverabily. That makes it so you have to hang in traffic a little more so cars take notice of you. I always wondered why roadies did this.....not I know.

My only gripe.....if you are gonna hang in traffic on a bicycle, you better haul bonnies, which I see most roadies doing, and not hold up traffic too long. That's why I hate fumbling with the pedals.